FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

A Veritable Delight

by alex.young

Feb 14, 2015

My sister Robbe, daughter Jenny and I were trying to decide where to have dinner before a performance of Carmen last Tuesday evening. We wanted it to be within walking distance of the Keller Auditorium, where Portland Opera staged the show, so that we wouldn’t have to park twice. Portland offers plenty of options in the area, but we zeroed in on The Veritable Quandary, a fine-dining favorite in town since 1971. Located in one of the oldest commercial buildings in the city, a single-story brick building resting at the foot of the Hawthorne Bridge, it boasts a lovely patio shaded by oak trees and abloom all through the spring and summer. In pleasant weather, large glass walls in the dining room open to this surprising oasis in the middle of commercial hustle and bustle. On the evening of our visit, a cool but dry February night, those same windows, though closed, brought in plenty of the remaining light in the darkening sky and offset the exposed brick walls of the space. At just after 5 p.m., the bar was crowded and hopping, and as we passed through to our table at the back, raised section of the dining room, we noticed a number of dinner guests were already seated. Our server confirmed that we had a performance to attend that evening and assured us she would make sure the staff would serve us and see us on our way in a timely fashion. Throughout the evening we found the service to be friendly and efficient which, combined with the wonderful food, made for a relaxed and delightful meal. The menu, which can change daily, depending on what the local vendors provide, offers a broad assortment of firsts, salads and soups, followed by entrées ranging from fish to fowl, vegetarian to carnivorous, along with some vegetable sides. The wine and beverage menu offers plenty of wines by the glass and bottle, interesting cocktails and nonalcoholic options. Jenny started with VQ’s vaunted bacon-wrapped dates, while Robbe and I each opted for salads. She enjoyed winter greens with pear and apple slices, hazelnuts and chèvre crostini, while I swooned over the roasted wild mushrooms and baby spinach salad. The nutty earthiness of the mushrooms was complemented by buttermilk blue cheese crumbles, crunchy hazelnuts and a warm panchetta vinaigrette — scrumptious! Jenny and I both ordered crispy duck confit served with gnocchi and pea shoots. The duck, served with a rich, savory sauce, melted off the bone, while a sprinkling of roasted hazelnuts added a contrasting crunch. Robbe enjoyed Hawaiian walu (a yellow tuna) served with mussels, cooked to perfection. We did save room for dessert, though we skipped the restaurant’s vaunted chocolate soufflé. (A couple at an adjoining table seemed to thoroughly enjoy theirs.) From a list of half a dozen housemade sorbets and ice creams, Jenny ordered the chocolate brownie ice cream, while I couldn’t resist the tropical panna cotta with guava and vanilla bean, coconut sorbet and fresh pineapple. Robbe went where I feared to tread and ordered the utterly decadent and delicious double chocolate Guinness stout cake, with Turkish coffee ice cream, brandied cherries and homemade toasted marshmallows. True to her word, our server saw us out the door with plenty of time to stroll (or waddle) the four blocks to the theater. We never felt rushed and found the pacing of our meal very comfortable. Between the service, the food and the ambiance (and the great location), I plan to visit the venerable Veritable Quandary again soon. — Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor

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