We took the happy confluence of our out-of-town friends’ visit and Valentine’s Day to introduce them to our favorite local fine-dining restaurant. Gogi’s is our go-to spot for special occasions, located in the historic gold-mining town of Jacksonville and owned and operated by two brothers, Joe and Gabriel Murphy. Joe runs the front of the house while Gabriel, the chef, creates everything served in house, from the breads and desserts to the pickled vegetables and sauces that garnish every artfully designed plate. They focus on using locally sourced, organic products, and much of the produce comes from their own one-acre farm nearby.

The welcoming, understated dining room backed by a lovely dark-wood bar (from which issue wonderful handcrafted cocktails) features fewer than 20 tables, making for an intimate dining experience. Service is always outstanding, matching the food in every aspect. We each started with an appetizer, served along with fresh, warm breads: wheatberry and a carrot sourdough and a pesto dipping sauce. The Italian white bean and bacon soup — delicate, creamy, rich and full of flavor — proved perfect for a chilly night.  Paul opted for the housemade sausage (superb) served with a raspberry mustard and perfectly pickled, slightly crunchy vegetables.   Since I was observing Ash Wednesday (the beginning of Lent and a meatless day), I opted for the special: moonfish served on a citrusy bed of sticky rice, surrounded by a beautifully tinted beetroot jus and sprinkled with a starfruit salsa.   The fish reminded me of tuna, and the jus was surprisingly sweet; the flavors and textures melded perfectly.

Three of us enjoyed the baby spinach, poached pear (with the faintest hint of cinnamon), candied pecans and blue cheese salad with a red wine vinaigrette,   while husband Harry chose his usual favorite: butter lettuce with avocado and the creamiest lemon-chevre dressing. Our main courses were divine: the gentlemen ordered the mustard-crusted filet mignon served with duck fat fingerling potatoes, roasted cauliflower and broccolini and a mixed mushroom ragout;  Julie chose a melt-off-the-bone lamb shank with tomato-stewed white beans and spinach pesto;   and I snagged the last meatless special: three enormous tiger prawns with rich Yukon gold potatoes (Hmmm, maybe there was duck fat involved there, too? I didn’t ask.) and perfectly grilled asparagus spears. 

Of course, it being Valentine’s Day, we totally went for broke and ordered dessert, too. Julie ordered crème brûlée,  Paul enjoyed a light berry cheesecake,  and Harry and I shared the Duo of Two Hearts: a hazelnut-chocolate cake paired with an amaretto-strawberry confection. Paired with two wonderful red wines we’d brought from our cellar (2008 Leonetti Merlot and 2006 Leonetti Cab) — though Gogi’s has a nice wine list and offers a selection of ports, Champagnes and dessert wines, too — it made for a wonderful Valentine’s Day dinner . . . and a pretty decadent start to Lent!

— Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor