FX Excursions

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Discover The Cotswolds’ Quintessentially English Villages

by Irene Rawlings

Nov 16, 2024

Victoria Street, Bourton-on-the-Water © Photofires | Dreamstime.com

November 2024

Famous for rolling green hills, quaint villages and distinctive honey-colored limestone buildings, the Cotswolds (an 800-square-mile region in central southwest England) carries a designation as an Area of Outstanding Beauty. More than 80 percent is still farmland, meadows and woodlands.

Beginning in the Middle Ages, the Cotswolds became prosperous by exporting extremely high-quality wool. By the early part of the Industrial Revolution (1750–1820), nearly 200 Cotswolds mills produced woolen fabrics. Wealthy merchants spent their money on manor houses, churches and other buildings — a rich legacy of the wool trade that still stands.

Today the Cotswolds remains one of the United Kingdom’s most popular tourist destinations, attracting around 38 million visitors a year.

Book early if you plan to visit in summer. Many accommodations — from grand country house hotels to cozy pubs with rooms — offer fewer than a dozen rooms, and they fill up quickly. Some villages get very busy, especially picture-perfect ones like Bourton-on-the-Water and Moreton-in- Marsh. However, the Cotswolds has something to offer year-round, from spring wildflowers to autumn leaves and log fires to a dusting of snow and Christmas lights in winter.

If you have business in London, it takes less than 1.5 hours to travel by train from Paddington Station to Bath (the starting point of your Cotswolds adventure). Bristol and Manchester — home to A-list international companies like AstraZeneca, Siemens, Vertical, OVO Energy and The Kellogg Co. — also lie close by.

sheep

Chipping Campden © DavidMartyn | Dreamstime.com

Spend a few days in Bath, a UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its Georgian architecture. Jane Austen devotees and fans of the Netflix hit Bridgerton will feel right at home walking the pretty streets (some still cobblestone), admiring the architecture, and stopping for tea and a Bath bun (recipe from the 1780s) at Sally Lunn’s Historic Eating House. Climb 212 steps to the top of Bath Abbey’s tower for panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. Easy to explore on foot, Bath abounds with smart independent shops, small bookstores, jewelry designers, food shops and premium high-street brands. Charles Dickens and Jane Austen enjoyed afternoon tea and scones in the Pump Room, and you can, too. The Romans built baths here in A.D. 70. You can’t come to Bath and not have a bath at Thermae Bath Spa (fed by natural thermal waters the ancient Romans once bathed in).

The Cotswolds region is literally packed with stately homes, such as Winston Churchill’s birthplace, Blenheim Palace. Don’t miss the miniature train that runs between the palace and gardens every half hour. Sudley Castle boasts acres of heavenly scented rose gardens and the grave of Katherine Parr, the last wife of Henry VIII. Highgrove House, the private residence of Their Majesties King Charles III and Queen Camilla, opens its extensive gardens to the public. Book a Champagne Tea Tour — a walk in the gardens followed by afternoon tea featuring Highgrove’s own sparkling wine. Visit the gift shop for savory preserves from the estate’s kitchen garden as well as watercolors by His Majesty.

Cotswolds

Cotswold lavender field © Wirestock | Dreamstime.com

Each town and village boasts its own unique character. Bourton-on-the-Water (dubbed the Venice of the Cotswolds) has numerous low stone bridges across the shallow river that flows through it. See the Model Village, a one-ninth scale replica of the actual village, complete with miniature trees, a miniature river and a church that sings. In Bibury, a row of weavers’ cottages (dating to the 14th century) is one of the most photographed places in England. Two of these historic stone abodes, administered by the National Trust, are available for short stays.

For an up-close look at ancient weaving techniques, visit The Cotswolds Woollen Weavers in the small village of Filkins. Antiques buffs appreciate the weekly antiques market in Cirencester (one of Roman Britain’s most important towns) and Corinium Museum, a treasure trove of Roman artifacts. Broadway features wide streets and gracious houses along with art galleries; antiques shops; a lively deli; and, in summer, ice cream vendors dressed in Victorian costumes. At Broadway Station hop on Gloucestershire Warwickshire Steam Railway for a cream tea as you travel through the countryside, or book the Silver Footplate Steam Driving Experience for the chance to drive a steam locomotive (under expert supervision). In Snowhill, go to the Cotswold Lavender farm, a delightful place for a picnic. For kids, there’s a woodland trail with a worksheet to help them spot woodland creatures.

Fans of Downton Abbey will recognize Bampton, the stand-in for Downton Village during the filming of the acclaimed British television series. It lies just a few miles south of the official boundary of the Cotswolds but is worth a visit. The town is quite small, so after a walk around the square and a visit to St. Mary’s Church (where some of Downton Abbey’s most dramatic scenes take place), stop at The Anglers Rest for good pub food, or drive 2 miles to The Swan Inn in Swinbrook (another filming location) for a traditional Sunday lunch.

cottage

The Weavers Cottages in Bibury © Gordon Magee | Dreamstime.com

Potterheads will want to explore the Harry Potter Trail of filming locations, including Harry’s (fictional) childhood home, in the largely-untouched-for-the-past-two- centuries village of Lacock and 11th-century Gloucester Cathedral (transformed into Hogwarts for Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets). Cotswold Falconry Centre (near Moreton-in-Marsh) has more than 60 species of birds of prey (like Hedwig, Harry Potter’s snowy owl). Check times for the impressive daily flying demonstrations. The Cotswold Wildlife Park and Gardens allows kids to get up close with giraffes, rhinos and meerkats. Don’t miss the penguins having lunch at 11 a.m. For children aged 2–5, Westonbirt Arboretum (the largest in the country) offers Tots & Twigs Forest School — interactive games out in nature.

In each of the small towns, be on the lookout for handmade posters announcing tea in the church hall or community center (usually sponsored by a local charity) serving delicious homemade cakes and the most authentic tea-with-locals experience. If you attend Sunday services at any of the historic stone churches, most offer a tea-and-cake reception after.

The rolling hills, meadows and woodlands provide endless opportunities for outdoor activities, from bird-watching and falconry to hiking the Cotswold Way National Trail, a scenic 102-mile route with great views. If through-hiking is not your thing, maybe try just a few miles from one quaint village to another, followed by a stop in a friendly pub such as The Porch House, Britain’s oldest pub (in Stowe-on-the-Wold), for a freshly pulled pint. Some parts of the building date back as far as the year 947. There are nearly 100 pubs in the Cotswolds. For lunch or an early dinner, quite a few are family-friendly.

The Cotswolds has a long equestrian heritage. Big-ticket events include the Badminton Horse Trials (May) and the Gloucestershire Festival of Polo (June). Cotswold Horse Tours arranges bespoke horse-focused activities, everything from hacking for a few hours to visiting the yard of an Olympic rider to attending a point-to-point. Or consider renting a bike or e-bike. The Bibury to Saint Aldwyns Trail’s 25.8-mile, moderately challenging loop winds through beautiful landscapes and charming villages. Another option is the 27.5-mile Burford to Northleach Trail, a moderately hilly loop.

LODGING
Hotel Indigo Bath, an IHG Hotel
From the outside: a row of elegant honey-colored townhouses dating to 1740. Inside: 166 guestrooms with all the modern conveniences and original décor paying tribute to the city’s heritage.
2-8 S. Parade, Bath, Somerset
$$$$

The Lygon Arms
The 16th-century coaching inn with antique furniture, wooden beams and original paintings offers 86 guestrooms in the historic inn, courtyard and adjoining cottages. Enjoy the superb spa and afternoon tea beside a cozy fire.
High Street, Broadway, Worcestershire
$$$$

THE PIG-in the Cotswolds
At this 1697 manor house set on 4 acres of Rosemary Verey-designed ornamental gardens, accommodations range from small-and-cute to a three-bedroom cottage. The restaurant serves food grown on property or locally sourced.
Barnsley, near Cirencester, Gloucestershire
$$$$

DINING
The Chequers
A gastropub with flagstone floors, candlelit tables and a well-used dartboard. A blackboard displays special menu items such as twice-baked Cheddar soufflé and battered market fish. Sample an impressive offering of local brews.
Goddards Lane, Chipping Norton, Oxfordshire
$$

The Double Red Duke
At this 16th-century restaurant enjoy open-flame cooking, from traditional fish and chips to wood-roasted sea scallops and fire-roasted steaks. Red leather bar stools, green velvet banquettes and red-and-white umbrellas on the terrace add to the atmosphere.
Bourton Road, Clanfield, Bampton, Oxfordshire
$$$$

Olive Tree Restaurant
With Chef Chris Cleghorn, a Heston Blumenthal alum, at the helm, Bath’s only Michelin- starred restaurant offers a fixed-price seasonal menu with wine or nonalcoholic pairings. Pescatarian, dairy-free, vegetarian and vegan options available.
The Queensbury Hotel, 4-7 Russell St., Bath, Somerset
$$$$$

INFO TO GO
Many Cotswold towns and villages lie on the direct train line from London. A high-speed train links London and Bath — city center to city center — every 30 minutes through the day and takes about 80 minutes. A car is essential for travel in the Cotswolds. Bath offers plenty of car rental agencies; Enterprise and Europcar seem to have the most locations. If you’re uncomfortable driving on the left side of the road, consider hiring a car and driver. Travel companies such as Red Savannah and Black Tomato can create custom itineraries.

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