I looked forward to experiencing the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills from the moment I entered the soaring lobby during a hard-hat tour last December. When the 170-room hotel made its début in June, adjacent to The Beverly Hilton on the triangular corner where Wilshire and Santa Monica Boulevard meet, it added contemporary Art Deco glamour to the city’s swank hotel scene. The 12-story structure was co-designed by Gensler and Pierre-Yves Rochon, joined by PYR’s parent company Perkins+Will. When I checked in, PYR’s touch was obvious in the high-ceilinged lobby with its massive, custom-made crystal chandelier and a 17-foot onyx, gas-burning fireplace framed by olive trees; and public spaces replete with Lalique installations and curated artwork.

Pool Cabanas © William Rust

I was offered a complimentary drink at the Rooftop by JG, where, in mid-afternoon on a weekday, every umbrella-topped table was occupied. The popular venue is reached via a landscape-lined boardwalk adjacent to a private-to-guests pool deck (with six private cabanas), overlooking residential Beverly Hills.

Blue dominated the color palette in my room — in the patterned carpet, the artwork and fabrics. The entry boasts gold-accented marble flooring, which continues in the bathroom on floors, tiles and the double-sink vanity with polished chrome metallic finishes. There’s a deep tub, separate shower and water closet, but no telephone or TV. A counter-level safe in the closet; bedside charging stations; an above-counter minibar; and an iPad to control lights, temperature and curtains are among the well-considered conveniences. Some suites offer large, curved terraces facing eastward toward downtown Los Angeles, and the 1,102-square-foot Beverly Hills suite features a 445-square-foot terrace.

Adding to the hotel’s allure is a food partnership with Jean-Georges Vongerichten. His elegant restaurant features creamy white and caramel colors, terrazzo flooring inlaid with bronze, a Murano glass chandelier, leather banquettes and lemon trees flanking the entry to the outdoor dining terrace.

© William Rust

From our seats on a curved banquette I ordered the tasting menu with paired wines, and my niece ordered a variety of vegetarian side dishes including steamed artichoke; mushrooms; an arugula salad with corn, avocado and radishes; and JG’s signature truffle and fontina cheese pizza. Pre-amuse starters featured caviar creations: One dollop of Osetra arrived atop an eggshell filled with a soft, shirred egg set in a bed of salt and with crème fraîche; another atop a Meyer lemon, filled with lemon gelée, topped with a circle of crème fraîche; and the third, a toasted egg yolk with herbs paired with a Bollinger Special Cuvée.

Ahi tuna tartare, a minimalist heirloom tomato dish, JG’s signature lemongrass and coconut milk lobster dish — paired with Chassagne-Montrachet 2014, a wonderful white from Burgundy — arrived before roasted Wagyu beef tenderloin served with spicy stewed peppers, alongside a Santa Barbara Syrah by Copain. We savored a warm chocolate cake with a soft center and vanilla ice cream, accompanied by a superb 30-year Jerez, a Spanish sherry.

The 5,000-square-foot La Prairie Spa also enhances the hotel’s amenities with six treatment rooms. The service is also impressive — one concierge escorted me to the rooftop and later accompanied me to my room. Another noticed me on the elevator pulling my own bag and introduced herself, took the bag out to my car and put it in the trunk. And because I didn’t answer the wake-up call, a security guard rang the doorbell to assure I was awake.

Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills

9850 Wilshire Blvd.
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
tel 310 860 6666
www.waldorfastoriabeverlyhills.com