I was illiterate when I first visited Hong Kong. Aged 17, I couldn’t understand a word of the Chinese neon signs. But 40 years later, I have changed, Hong Kong has changed, and my ability to understand the signs has changed. Now I point my phone at the unintelligible script, open a translation app, and everything magically morphs into English. The exotic becomes mundane: Shoe Store. Office Supplies. Laundry. Dentist. Insurance Broker.

Arrival, too, seems less exotic. The thrilling approach into the old Kai Tak Airport, banking sharply among skyscrapers, is now a conventional descent to Chek Lap Kok Airport, constructed on a manmade island beyond sight of the city. An additional runway and terminal expansion, under construction, will significantly add capacity by 2030. Meanwhile, the abandoned runway at Kai Tak is transforming into a mixed-used district with apartment blocks; a hospital; a cruise ship terminal; and a 50,000-seat stadium.

© PIXELPROFESSIONAL
2019 | DREAMSTIME

Buildable land has always been at a premium in Hong Kong, one of the most densely populated places on Earth. Most of the population is crammed onto Hong Kong Island and the mainland district of Kowloon, separated by Victoria Harbour. Much of the terrain is mountainous. Even among the skyscrapers, you can’t avoid the underlying contours. On Hong Kong Island, a system of outdoor escalators takes the sting out of some of the steepest streets.

Despite geological limitations, Hong Kong benefits from its strategic location. The territory has long served as a super-connector between South Asia and the Far East. In the 19th century it became a trading hub for the British Empire, essential for the import and export of silk, tea, porcelain and opium. The more it thrived, the less viable it became. In 1898 Britain signed a 99-year lease with China for the New Territories, a swath of mainland and islands that helped supply food and fresh water to the expanding colony. The expiry of the lease in 1997 signaled the end of British rule.

PHOTO: © SPA AT THE PENINSULA HONG KONG

Although the former colony now belongs to China, it retained its distinct identity. The handover agreement called for “one country, two systems,” preserving Hong Kong’s free market economy and judiciary. The 150-year British legacy remains in many street names, in the green post boxes, in the population’s love of tea, in the double-decker trams and buses, in driving on the left, and in the remaining historic buildings. Among them is the venerable Peninsula Hong Kong hotel, which continues to serve afternoon tea in the lobby as it has done since 1928.

In the time I’ve known Hong Kong, the skyline has grown ever taller. New buildings forever sprout within cocoons of bamboo scaffolding. More significantly, the territory itself has expanded. Land reclamation projects altered the shape of the shorelines. One of the largest of these new areas, jutting flatly into Victoria Harbour, is West Kowloon Cultural District. This 99-acre site, already partly completed, will eventually include an art park, museums, theater complex, exhibition center and residential blocks.

After four decades, I still can’t claim to understand Hong Kong, but I have recognized one fundamental truth: This is a city built on change.

CHECKING IN WITH CONNIE PONG
Director of Spa & Wellness, The Peninsula Hong Kong

How is the wellness sector evolving in Hong Kong?
Several key developments are emerging in wellness as individuals increasingly seek balance between health, exercise and relaxation amid the city’s bustling lifestyle. The Peninsula Hotels’ initiative, the “Life Lived Best” program, highlights these very aspects. This program focuses on wellness and sustainability, structured around three core pillars: Physical Fitness, Mental Health and Nutrition.

PHOTO: © SPA AT THE PENINSULA HONG KONG

What sets The Peninsula Hotel apart from other high-end hotels in Hong Kong?
The Peninsula Spa & Wellness Centre fuses traditional Chinese elements with contemporary flair. We provide a comprehensive wellness approach that includes not only a variety of treatments but also access to relaxation rooms, hammam-style steam rooms, saunas, aromatherapy experience showers and cooling ice fountains. Exclusive treatments featuring high-end products from brands such as Margy’s Monte Carlo and Voya are also available, including advanced facials and full-body therapies. The serene environment of the spa, with its warm-toned marble, rustic woods and textured granite, creates a tranquil escape from the city outside.

What cultural differences should American visitors be aware of?
Treatments often adopt a holistic approach, featuring acupressure, meridian massages and unique techniques such as Gua Sha and hot jade stone therapy, all aimed at stimulating circulation and restoring balance to relieve stress and tension. We also offer Western spa treatments that utilize modern techniques, focusing on relaxation, beauty and anti-aging through standardized protocols that ensure consistency and effectiveness. We blend both approaches, offering a diverse range of treatments. Unlike in the United States, tipping is not customary in Hong Kong. Service charges are typically included in the bill, so additional tipping is not expected.

Which local attractions in Hong Kong do you recommend?
For those seeking local wellness attractions, Victoria Peak provides breathtaking views and hiking trails, while Repulse Bay offers a serene beach atmosphere perfect for relaxation. The Sai Kung Waterfront Park is perfect for outdoor activities and leisurely dining. Additionally, Hong Kong is home to a wealth of hidden gems. These locations, such as tranquil hiking trails and secluded beaches, provide a harmonious blend of relaxation, wellness and nature, making Hong Kong an ideal place for rejuvenation.

DIVERSIONS
Before you do anything, get an Octopus Card to prepay for public transport and taxis … and even for purchases at some stores and restaurants. Initial cost is $20, and you can top up at any time via app.

Getting around is part of the adventure. The Star Ferry across Victoria Harbour between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island doubles as a cheap sightseeing cruise. On the island, be sure to take a ding-ding, one of the double-decker electric trams operating here since 1904.

PHOTO:
© DANICA CHANG
| DREAMSTIME.COM,

On clear days look for great views of the city from Victoria Peak. Get there by Peak Tram (a funicular railway), bus or on foot. The Ngong Ping 360 cable car takes you across the wilds of Lantau Island; if you’re brave enough, opt for a cabin with a glass floor. Be sure to catch the Symphony of Lights, a free, nightly multimedia show incorporating 43 buildings on Hong Kong Island, best viewed from the Avenue of Stars in Kowloon at 8 p.m.

LODGING
OASIS AURUM 181
In an excellent waterfront location on Hong Kong Island, this hotel offers spacious rooms with panoramic views of Victoria Harbour (unless you opt for a cheaper Urban Room with city views).
181 Connaught Road W., Sai Wan, Hong Kong
$$$

THE PENINSULA HONG KONG
The best hotel in the world? It’s been a serious contender for nearly a century. The original colonial building has been supplemented by a swanky 30-floor tower in the same style.
Salisbury Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong
$$$$

THE FLEMING
This stylish boutique hotel in Wan Chai district on Hong Kong Island embraces industrial-chic design inspired by the cross-harbor Star Ferry.
41 Fleming Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong
$$$

DINING
CAFÉ HUNAN
Café Hunan is the only restaurant chain in Hong Kong specializing in hot and spicy Hunan cuisine. This outlet in Western District is the original.
420-424 Queen’s Road W., Western District, Hong Kong
$$

ENG KEE NOODLE SHOP
This family-run, exceptionally popular, no- frills restaurant serves authentic Cantonese noodle soup. Eat in or take out.
32 High St., Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong
$

FORUM
Serving Cantonese cuisine worthy of three Michelin stars, Forum has remained one of Hong Kong’s top restaurants since opening in 1977.
1/F Sino Plaza, 255-257 Gloucester Road, Cause- way Bay, Hong Kong
$$$$

JUST THE FACTS
Time zone: GMT +8
Phone code: 852
Currency: Hong Kong dollar
Key industries: Financial services, trade and logistics, tourism

COMING AND GOING
All U.S. citizens require a passport valid for at least one month beyond their departure date, proof of sufficient funds for their stay and proof of onward travel. You can stay in Hong Kong for 90 days without a visa. A visa is required for any travel to mainland China.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE
English and Yue Chinese (Cantonese)

INFO TO GO
International flights arrive at Hong Kong International Airport, also known as Chek Lap Kok Airport, 20 miles west of Kowloon. Highway tunnels under Victoria Harbour connect the mainland to Hong Kong Island. You can also cross by metro or ferry. The train journey from the airport to downtown takes 24 minutes. There are stops in Kowloon and Hong Kong Island.