Rounding the bend, I gasp. Through the morning mist — and not 100 yards in front of our vehicle — a matriarchal herd of elephants is enjoying their breakfast of tree limbs and leaves. Suddenly, a baby elephant emerges from pillars of elephant legs, mimicking her mom’s, aunts’ and sisters’ behavior by trying to pull lower-hanging branches into her mouth.

She’s learning to use her trunk; and while she does not have much success, we find it adorable, charming and funny at the same time. Our attention rapt by the baby, we do not hear a bull elephant silently approach from behind. Fortunately our guide, Raymond, does and gently repositions us to lessen our presence.

A huge smile on my face, I look over to my sister, Karen, and see tears streaming down her face. She’s overcome with emotion, watching the majestic beauty of African elephants in their native habitat, unencumbered and unaffected by humans. The experience truly is magical and the first of countless wildlife sightings and memories we would make on our 10-day Southern African Adventure with John Hall’s Alaska.

SOUTH AFRICA
Many of the safaris found in South Africa focus their attention on Kruger National Park … and for good reason: It is one of the continent’s largest game reserves at nearly 5 million acres and home to about 150 species of mammals and more than 500 bird species. The park lies about four hours from Johannesburg and roughly 19 hours from Cape Town.

© Susan B. Barnes

An alternative to Kruger is Shamwari Private Game Reserve near Gqeberha, formerly Port Elizabeth, in South Africa. At about 155 square miles and with its own wildlife rehabilitation center and big cat sanctuary, Shamwari is entirely dedicated to the conservation of African wildlife.

During game drives, which happened daily at sunrise and dusk for the best viewing opportunities, Raymond expertly led us through the reserve, taking time to passively observe stands and journeys of giraffe, crashes of rhinos, dazzles of zebra, lounging lions and cheetah, a raft of hippos, graceful elephants, unimpressed Cape buffalo, curious warthogs, mischievous baboons, elusive hyena, and so much more … not to mention too many birds to name. He shared facts and tidbits about each, his breadth of knowledge and evident passion for his work truly inspiring.

Between game drives, Karen and I recharged in our spacious and elegantly-yet-comfortably appointed rooms at Long Lee Manor; lounged poolside; and feasted upon exquisitely prepared meals morning, noon and night. One afternoon between game drives, I treated my weary body to what turned out to be one of the best spa experiences I’ve ever had.

CHOBE RIVER

© Susan B. Barnes

After a few nights in Zimbabwe to experience Victoria Falls and the Zambezi River, Karen and I boarded Zambezi Queen for a few days of river safaris on the Chobe River, straddling Botswana and Namibia. As in Shamwari, our game drives departed in the early morning hours and around dusk, but rather than climbing into vehicles, we boarded small boats navigated by Dominic, our knowledgeable guide from a local riverside village.

I did not know what to expect on the Chobe River and was surprised to spot many of the Big Five along the riverbanks including lions, elephants and Cape buffalo. We opted in on early morning bird-watching drives and spotted four types of kingfishers, goliath heron, a short-tail eagle and a murmuration of black-winged pratincoles … to name a few of the dozens of species we added to our life lists.

On our last outing, from the comfort of our game drive skiff, we again watched a baby elephant learning to use her trunk, this time trying to scoop river water into her mouth. After a few unsuccessful tries, she dropped to her knees and slurped water with her mouth. I gasped in delight.

LODGING
Shamwari Private Game Reserve 
Spot the Big Five from the comfort of your private lanai or poolside at Shamwari Private Game Reserve’s luxurious Long Lee Manor. Or choose from six other all-inclusive accommodation options.

Paterson, South Africa
$$$$$

The Silo Hotel 
Unwind in exceptional luxury with breathtaking waterfront vistas. This hotel features a rooftop terrace and an outdoor pool with sun loungers, a spa, and individually decorated rooms with rainfall showers and deep soaking tubs.
Silo Square, Victoria & Alfred
Waterfront, Cape Town,
South Africa
$$$$$

The Victoria Falls Hotel
Follow in the footsteps of Queen Elizabeth and Prince Albert with a stay at the historic, iconic, 5-star Victoria Falls Hotel, overlooking one of the Natural Wonders of the World.
1 Mallet Drive, Victoria Falls,
Zimbabwe
$$$$$

DINING
Bushtracks Express 
Enjoy a seven-course dinner on board a luxurious steam train that stops on the Victoria Falls Bridge. As the sun sets, toast to the experiences of the day and what’s to come.
Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
$$$$$

Embarc 
Find an ever-changing menu featuring the freshest ingredients and latest culinary trends — not to mention an impressive wine list — at Embarc. Think fine, elegant dining in a casual environment.

Corner of 13th Street and Fourth Avenue, Parkhurst,
Johannesburg, South Africa
$$

PIER
Seafood shines in the spotlight at PIER, frequently found on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Multicourse tasting menus are served for lunch and dinner, with vegetarian options available.
Pierhead Building, Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, Cape Town, South Africa
$$$$$

© Susan B. Barnes

INFO TO GO
Myriad outfitters offer African safaris, many of which begin or end in Cape Town (CPT) or Johannesburg (JNB), South Africa. Direct flights from the United States to South Africa depart from Atlanta (ATL); New York (EWR); and Washington, D.C. (IAD), to either airport. In Cape Town taxis, rental cars and ride shares are available from the airport; once in the city, a robust public transit system makes it easy to get around. In Johannesburg take the high-speed Gautrain into the city. From there consider a private car hire. The 10-day Southern African Adventure with John Hall’s Alaska begins in Cape Town and ends in Johannesburg, with intercontinental travel by plane, bus and boat en route.