In the Arctic Ocean off the coast of Greenland, the ship eases to a halt and the passengers get off to walk. How is that even possible? Surely it requires the ability to walk on water. In the polar regions, walking on water is perfectly normal.

In luminous jackets, clustered together for safety, they tread across a crust of ice. The vessel looms behind them, seemingly stuck. Fortunately, it is not just a cruise ship — it is also an icebreaker. Once the excursion is over, it will grind back into action, ploughing a course through the icy wilderness.

The ship is Le Commandant Charcot, a unique hybrid vessel powered by electricity and liquid natural gas. Operated by French company Ponant Cruises, it brings remarkable luxury to the most hostile environments in the world. In the northern summer (May– September) it sails the Arctic before heading down to Antarctica for the southern summer (November–March).

Beyond the comfortable cocoon of the ship, the hazards are very real, and expert guides are always on hand for the well-being of the passengers. The guides ensure the ice is safe to walk on, nobody disappears into crevasses and, vitally in Arctic regions, there are no polar bears in the vicinity. For the duration of the stop, a range of activities is on offer including dog sledding, fishing through holes in the ice, kayaking in the open water left in the ship’s wake, and even — for the very hardy — the chance to don swimsuits and swim in the Arctic Ocean.

PHOTO: © STUDIOPONANT-OLIVIER BLAUD

In the winter months the more functional Polar Explorer, a Swedish icebreaker, offers three-hour cruises in the ice-choked wastes of the Bothnian Sea between Finland and Sweden. The cruise also offers swimming, though in this case, waterproof survival suits are provided.

M/S Kvitungen, a compact “ice class” vessel, operates adventurous wildlife-watching tours out of Svalbard, Norway, in August and September. Polar bears are the headline species, though walruses, musk oxen, seals and whales often appear. Don’t expect the comforts of a cruise. The berths are bunkbeds, and restroom facilities are shared.

Bird Life South Africa periodically runs January bird- watching cruises aboard MSC Musica from Durban to the sub- Antarctic Prince Edward Islands. The eight-day voyage provides the opportunity to spot penguins and polar seabirds as well as elephant seals and whales. The islands have no facilities to receive cruise ships, so all of the wildlife-watching takes place from the ship. For birders, it’s a chance to tick off some of the most elusive species in the world. Check the organization’s website for forthcoming trips.

Although Antarctica lacks polar bears, the region makes up for it with a wealth of species not found in the polar north, most notably the charismatic penguins and southern elephant seals, the largest seals on the planet. More than a dozen operators run cruises to Antarctica during the southern summer, most of which include the opportunity to set foot on the White Continent.

Heritage Adventurer, which operates out of New Zealand, runs two 28-day cruises in January and February exploring the Ross Sea. This part of Antarctica was a focal point for early expeditions to the South Pole, and guests can visit the century- old wooden huts of the first explorers. There are also plenty of opportunities to meet the wildlife.

Another popular route, on the other side of the continent, takes in the Falkland Islands, the island of South Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsula. Quark Expeditions is one of several operators on the route, with two cruise ships: Ocean Explorer and Ultramarine. Cruises typically last 20 days and feature the option of exploring the Antarctic interior by helicopter.

Within living memory, the polar regions were the impenetrable last frontiers. Now it is possible for modern travelers to cruise in comfort to the ends of the Earth.

INFO TO GO
Le Commandant Charcot’s Arctic itineraries operate out of the Norwegian island of Svalbard as well as from locations in Iceland, Greenland and (occasionally) Alaska. The ship’s embarkation point for Antarctica is Ushuaia, Argentina. Polar Explorer departs from a remote terminal in Lapland in northern Sweden, with bus transfers available from selected towns in both Sweden and Finland. M/S Kvitungen operates out of Longyearbyen in Svalbard. Heritage Adventurer departs from Bluff Harbour in southern New Zealand, though most passengers assemble the day before in Queenstown and transfer overland to the port. Quark Expeditions operates out of Ushuaia, Argentina.