The freezing, foggy weather we’ve had lately makes me recall even more fondly the sun and warm temperatures we enjoyed during our week’s stay in Italy in late September. We spent one almost-too-warm day there away from the heat and crowds in Rome exploring two lovely sites about 20 miles outside the city.

Our day began at Hadrian’s Villa (Villa Adriana), an enormous and fascinating place that covers some 250 acres. Built by the Emperor Hadrian during his reign (beginning around 130 A.D.), it includes the ruins of palaces; theatres; temples; libraries; baths; and quarters for guests, courtiers and servants. One could understand why the emperor would prefer this forested, peaceful retreat to Rome, especially in the summertime. Hadrian, an extremely well-traveled and intelligent man, wanted to reproduce here some of the great buildings of Greece and Egypt. We marveled at the details still visible after centuries of disuse, damage and the “mining” of marble and artwork for use elsewhere. We walked across intricate black-and-white mosaic tiled floors, completely intact, and gazed at domes and columns three and four stories tall.

Later, we drove a short distance to the hilltop town of Tivoli to visit the Villa d’Este. The Villa and its elaborate and extensive gardens were commissioned by Cardinal Ippolito d’Este, son of Lucrezia Borgia and grandson of Pope Alexander VI, in the 16th century. He was, in fact, one of those who raided Hadrian’s Villa for some of the materials used in his estate. The villa itself is being restored and renovated, and one passes through rooms with beautiful frescoes on the walls and ceilings.

My greatest delight, though, was in the gardens which step down the steep hillside behind the palace. On this hot day, we shared it with very few visitors, and the 500-some fountains lent the air a refreshing coolness along with the soothing sounds of water splashing and flowing. The plantings themselves aren’t extraordinarily elaborate, but at every turn one finds fantastical sculptures (fish and fowl, human figures and nymphs, sea monsters and wild beasts) from which spout gushes of water. While it’s not a good site for those with bad knees or mobilitiy issues, the Villa d’Este is a delightful place for someone looking for something other than another ancient ruin.

I would highly recommend both Villa Adriana and Villa d’Este for those seeking a pleasant daytrip from Rome.

— Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor