I have long been a staunch supporter of a select group of restaurants in Chicago. I know what I like, and I stick with it. However, on my most recent trip I chose a restaurant at random, and Bavette’s was the pick. Expecting something new and altogether fine, I was not expecting to leave the city with a new favorite restaurant.

Step off Kinzie Street, out of the sun, and enter the small vestibule housing the host stand, and the experience begins. With no direct line of sight into the dining room, what awaits is a mystery to the first-time diner, but one proving quite satisfactory, as you’re led into a dark, high-ceilinged space. Once your eyes adjust, you’re treated to a French-style steakhouse, with gorgeous leather seating, woodwork and chandeliers awash in a golden glow.

The setting, which feels like a secret passport to a better, classier era, is enhanced by the attentive wait staff and the delectable menu selection. The font on the menu is carefully chosen to add to the illusion.

When looking over the drink menu, you’ll notice a theme in keeping with the décor. Classic cocktails are offset by a fine selection of bourbons and whiskeys. The mint julep is just as good as what you’d find at the Derby, and the Old Fashioneds and other bourbon-based cocktails are equally nice.

The dinner menu follows the same vein — classic offerings just as pleasing, including the presentation. However, the food would not have the same effect if it were served anywhere else. This did not stop me, though, from devouring large portions of the roasted chicken, the classic Bavette’s spiced fried chicken, sides of mashed potatoes with cipollini gravy and truffle mac and cheese.

Overall, Bavette’s is truly a good restaurant due to its artfully created atmosphere, which is such a delightful surprise for unassuming visitors. Will the illusion be broken on my second visit? I doubt it. It seems these masters of culinary performance have their act down, and it’s serving them well.

Bavette’s Bar & Boeuf

218 W. Kinzie St.
Chicago, IL 60654
tel 312 624 8154