ARRIVAL/CHECK-IN: As we ascended the steep road to the top of Santa Catalina Hill, the imposing walls of the 13th-century Castle of Santa Catalina loomed above my head. Pulling up to the hotel, I felt like Spanish royalty arriving at my own castillo. The property sits right up against the ruins of the castle, and the hotel itself occupies a former 18th-century castle renovated to meet modern standards. Gothic vaulted stone ceilings, medievalesque tapestries and arched windows transported me to a different era. Even the intimate lobby harkens back to medieval times with rounded doors, warm lighting and stone walls.

GUEST QUARTERS: After walking through the historical corridors past thick wooden doors and sculpted ceilings, I opened my own door to find a red-tiled room bathed in cream colors alongside a stone accent wall to remind me of the building’s origins. In addition to a spacious bathroom with a double vanity sink, bidet and bathtub/shower, the room featured a large workspace and small circular table and chairs. The crowning glory of the room, however, lay just behind the double doors opening onto my own balcony, where I simply stood in awe for a few minutes. Because the hotel sits so high up, I was completely surrounded by mountains from the Sierra de Jabalcuz, the peaks blanketed by clouds. At sunset, the mountains are especially prominent against a purple and pink background while below, the city of Jaén and its historical buildings and streets can be spotted. While I could never get enough of the medieval details, modern amenities are still included in the room, such as a flat-screen TV, room service, WiFi and minibar.

SERVICES/AMENITIES: The nearby castle’s Spanish and Moorish history is best seen in the dining room, where hanging colored lights reminiscent of Morocco drape from the high ceilings. Dishes highlight locally grown produce and olive oil, with standouts including Iberian ham croquettes and lamb. As in all Parador hotels, I was treated to an authentic Spanish breakfast in the same dining space in the morning. The fresh juices are a must. While I visited in October, the hotel does include a seasonal pool with views of the medieval castle. The property also features several lounge spaces and meeting rooms. And you really can’t beat the location next to Santa Catalina Castle, mere steps away and waiting to be explored.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

• The history of the hotel and neighboring castle add a dreamy and medieval haze to the stay.
• Views from the room windows and balcony of the mountains and city below are unmatched.
• A dinner of authentic Jaén cuisine in a grand hall feels more like a medieval banquet than your average hotel supper.

PARADOR DE JAÉN
Castillo de Santa Catalina, s/n 23001 Jaén, Spain
tel 34 953 23 0000
paradores.es