You’ll hardly discover the 118 islands of French Polynesia in a single stopover. And as any seasoned sailor in these parts will tell you, even a lifetime of exploring this incredible part of the world may not provide enough time.

It’s best to explore the Islands of Tahiti — unfolding atoll by islet across 2 million square miles of ocean and five archipelagos — destination by destination, savoring each unique place like the sweetest of tropical fruits that only taste this delicious in the place where they grow.

For travelers looking to immerse in spectacular underwater environments and then find themselves with utterly empty beaches to explore once they towel off, it’s worth catching a flight from Papeete to reach the Tuamotu Archipelago.

Here, the atoll of Fakarava comes into view like a giant life preserver tossed into an impossibly blue ocean as your plane descends for the tropical escape of a lifetime.

© Tahiti Tourisme

Scuba divers have long added Fakarava to their dream destination short list for its underwater beauty and thrills. A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, the atoll’s protected turquoise lagoon sprawls across more than 400 miles; it’s best explored along its shoreline by kayak and paddleboard, readily available at most hotels and guesthouses. The scuba diving action plays out in the atoll’s passes, ringed by spectacular coral reefs where enormous Napoleon wrasse, manta rays and scores of gray reef sharks regularly appear.

On Fakarava’s southern shoreline, Tetamanu Pass is known for strong incoming currents that attract a wall of sharks for one of scuba diving’s most adrenaline-pumping views. Snorkelers can stay comfortably at the surface to “drift snorkel” through the pass, surrounded by coral walls and clouds of tropical fish as well as the occasional passing shark.

For a glimpse of local life out of the water, rent a bike to pedal the streets of Rotoava. Fakarava’s main village, home to about 800 people, features sandy lanes shaded by palms and overflowing with pink and orange bougainvillea. Take time to peek into the historic Catholic church here, dating to 1874 and built entirely from coral.

© Tahiti Tourisme

Besides memories for life from a pristine part of the planet very few travelers ever get to enjoy, the most special souvenir you can take with you from Fakarava is a lustrous black pearl from one of the atoll’s home-grown pearl farms. Take a free tour at pearl farms like the one at Havaiki Lodge and Hinano Pearls to learn about the intricate culturing process and what makes these treasures so uniquely Tahitian in their beauty and lore.

LODGING
HAVAIKI LODGE
With 10 bungalows set along the edge of a spectacular beach and another five tucked into tropical gardens, Havaiki Lodge exudes big escapist vibes. Spend your days strolling and lounging along the atoll’s pink-sand beaches, or explore further afield on kayaks and bikes.
BP 121, W9GM+RX5, Fakarava
$$$

RAIMITI

A remote and authentic guesthouse stay awaits travelers who venture to Motu Tetapiri, located in the southern reaches of Fakarava and accessed via a private boat transfer across the lagoon. Make one of the nine traditional Tahitian bungalows secreted away in a coconut grove your base for snorkeling and diving excursions to famous local sites. The pink-sand beach of Hirifa also sits nearby.
BP 144, Rotoava, Fakarava
$$$

RELAIS MARAMA
This rustic resort has bungalows on stilts where you’ll sleep under mosquito nets to the thrum of ocean waves. Enjoy daily breakfast served in a communal dining area where kitchen facilities also let guests prepare meals. A camping area accommodates those who bring tents.
BP 16, Rotoava, Fakarava
$$

poisson cru ceviche © Martinmark | Dreamstime.com

DINING
MEKO BAR
Open for dinner only, this favorite European-inflected restaurant at Havaiki Lodge incorporates local seafood and produce into a fine-dining menu complemented by tropical craft cocktails and French wines.
BP 121, W9GM+RX5,
Fakarava
$$$

LE SNACK DU REQUIN DORMEUR
This favorite spot at Havaiki Lodge features tables set on the beach and right in the water where you can try fresh fish carpaccio, Tahitian-style ceviche called poisson cru, delicious grilled steaks and more.
BP 121, W9GM+RX5,
Fakarava
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SNACK KORIKORI
There’s a pretty little terrace where you can watch sharks and tropical fish swim past at this café located at a family-run guesthouse. You’ll never go wrong ordering the catch of the day and a plate of tropical fruit for a sweet finish.
W94P+WVC, Fakarava
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© MARTIN PROCHÁZKA | DREAMSTIME.COM

INFO TO GO
The only international airport in the Tahitian Islands lies in Papeete on the main island of Tahiti Nui. Several international airlines offer direct service to Faa’a International Airport from the United States, Canada, Japan, New Zealand, Australia, France and Chile. Domestic airlines Air Tahiti Nui, Air Moana and Tahiti Nui Helicopters, as well as charter flights, carry travelers to Tahiti’s many other island destinations, although some remote islands only see a few small passenger flights per week.