THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN Riyadh’s two principal neighborhoods is day and night. Literally. Daytime Riyadh bakes in the desert heat, its modern

SAUDI ARABIA IS CHANGING, with Jeddah leading the way. The Red Sea port has always been the most liberal city

FROM JEDDAH TO RIYADH, we make the 500-mile journey on a pristine highway heading inland from the coast, skirting Mecca,

For 15 centuries, Riyadh, Saudi Arabia’s largest city, served as the historic gateway to the holy cities of Mecca and