They’re less than 6 miles apart, connected by an unseen thread of history that weaves through their narrow streets, Moorish ruins, Renaissance squares and plazas, and medieval stonework. The Andalusian cities of Baeza and Úbeda, in the province of Jaén, are two UNESCO-recognized cities for their Renaissance monument ensembles, but taking just one step in both cities will show the Renaissance architecture is only a fraction of the story.

The Fountain of the Lions © Aoife O’Riordan

Baeza is considered to have some of the best-preserved examples of Italian Renaissance architecture in Spain, but the city actually dates to Roman times. In fact, in Plaza del Populo is the Fountain of the Lions, an Ibero-Roman ruined fountain with a statue of, what most historians agree to be, Imilce, the Iberian wife of Carthaginian general Hannibal.

One of the most fascinating buildings in Baeza is Jabalquinto Palace, a 16^th-century Isabelline Gothic structure built for a cousin of King Ferdinand II as a gift to his wife, Maria Marquis. If the wealth and status of this family could not be seen from the many coats of arms across its façade, their boldness is perhaps no more evident than the details elsewhere across the exterior, including naked humans and suggestive designs. Ironically, the palace later became a monastery before its current status as part of a university. Just think what those monks must have thought walking through its doors every day and having to see the explicit designs on the outside!

© Aoife O’Riordan

Walking through Baeza, it’s hard not to also notice some of the buildings have red painted letters, some faded, others prominent. These were made using bull’s blood by students at the university hundreds of years ago, revealing a long-lasting rivalry between Baeza and Úbeda. One particularly obscene (and humorous) image shows a once prominent Úbeda official sitting on the toilet and, well, you can guess what Baeza’s students thought about him.

Jabalquinto Palace © Aoife O’Riordan

Other phenomenal Renaissance buildings in Baeza include Natividad de Nuestra Señora Cathedral, The Chapel of St. Francis and The Villalar Arch.

Just a short drive away lies Úbeda, a city with 48 monuments and more than 100 buildings of interest, most in the Renaissance style. The ancient city has proto-historical roots, as well as Roman, Arabic and medieval elements.

Ubeda © Aoife O’Riordan

Within Vázquez de Molina Square are several Renaissance churches and chapels. A former 16^th-century palace in the square is now a Parador hotel, preserving the foundation of the property. The square is also home to Chapel of the Savior, a deceptive-looking building that, upon first look, may seem like a church. The structure is actually the tomb of Francisco de los Cobos, secretary to Emperor Charles V. Within, you’ll see motifs not as much in the Catholic sense but rather of ancient Greece, with images and sculptures of philosophers and their teachings.

The main church of the city, Basílica de Santa María de los Reales Alcázares, can also be found on this square.

Both cities reveal a coexistence of cultures amongst the Christian, Islamic and Jewish communities. You feel it as you explore their streets and visit the monuments and buildings.