Dreaming of a vacation spent under the Tuscan sun? You’re, quite obviously, not alone. See the seminal 2003 film starring Diane Lane pursuing a fresh start in the hilltop town of Cortona, or Elizabeth Gilbert eating, praying and loving her way through the medieval village of Montepulciano a few years later — a journey cinematically depicted by Julia Roberts.
The idea of the Tuscan countryside as a restorative and invigorating escape for middle-aged women looking to infuse la dolce vita in their daily lives is grounded in a certain reality. Tuscany is, quite literally, heaven on Earth (specifically, on the rolling hillsides of central Italy). I first visited Tuscany as a child, and my strongest memory is posing with my siblings at the Tower of Pisa surrounded by eager street vendors who correctly identified four small children as prime targets. (I still have my Pisa tower keychain.)
Of course, not all of Tuscany swarms with tourists and those catering to their kitschy desires. In fact, most of the region remains serene, bucolic and blissfully undiscovered. The narrow, winding roads certainly help in this regard, keeping away nervous drivers and tour buses alike. I’ve returned to Tuscany many times over the years, and it always feels like a portal into another (unhurried) universe, one where everything is homegrown and artisanal: The lunches are longer, the wine crisper, the sunsets more spectacular. Despite industrial globalization, Italians seem to have preserved a more communal, earthy way of life.
And my observation isn’t exactly unique; it is echoed by dialogue in the recent Tuscan-set film Jay Kelly, shot in the Renaissance town of Pienza: “Italy. What is its fatal charm? I believe it is a certain permission to be human, which other places lost too long ago.”
And though the lifestyle may be slower, there’s no shortage of diverting activities and attractions to explore in Tuscany. Florence is famous for the tremendous shopping and lively cafés lining its cobblestone streets, Renaissance architecture looming in the columns and arches overhead. Tuscany’s largest city and the birthplace of the Renaissance, Florence is renowned as the cultural capital of Europe and makes the ideal starting point for your trip.
From there, travelers should set out to explore the rolling hills and sprawling vineyards of the countryside or head out to the rugged cliffs and white-sand beaches along the coast (the Argentario is far less crowded than other Italian seaside retreats in Capri or Amalfi). Read on for the top places to wine, dine and unwind in Tuscany, and prepare to book your next Chianti-filled vacation. Ciao, bella.
LODGING
HOTEL IL PELLICANO
La dolce vita awaits along the Argentario coast in Porto Ercole, where the ultra-chic Hotel Il Pellicano offers 5-star glamour, Michelin-starred meals and stunning views of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Località Sbarcatello, Porto Ercole, Tuscany
$$$$–$$$$$
RENAISSANCE TUSCANY IL CIOCCO RESORT & SPA
A modern interpretation of classic Florentine charm awaits at this elegant 1,700-acre retreat overlooking the Serchio Valley in the Lucca countryside. Sip an Aperol spritz poolside and enjoy the impossibly bucolic surroundings.
Via Giovanni Pascoli, Castelvecchio Pascoli, Tuscany
$$$–$$$$
This 15th-century villa epitomizes Tuscan luxury with opulent Florentine architecture and sumptuous interiors. Spend an afternoon truffle hunting and watch the sunset from the terrace overlooking the manicured gardens and rolling hills of Fiesole.
Via del Salviatino 21, Florence, Tuscany
$$$$–$$$$$
DINING
EMPORIO DEL CASTELLO
Located within the sprawling farm estate of ultra-chic Castello di Casole, this terrace proves perfect for an early dinner while watching the sunset over the rolling hills of Siena.
Località Querceto, 53031
Casole d’Elsa, Tuscany
$$–$$$
OSTERIA LA CANONICA
From a shaded veranda overlooking the Orcia Valley, experience the charms of a traditional Tuscan trattoria and dine on wood-fired pizza and seasonal produce from the nearby organic garden.
Castiglion del Bosco, A Rosewood Hotel, Castiglion del Bosco, Montalcino, Tuscany
$$–$$$
RISTORANTE SCACCIAGUAI
Scacciaguai means “to drive away your troubles” in Italian, and one bite of the amazing focaccia (or the Champagne lamb) will do just that. This beloved restaurant is tiny and popular, so call for reservations.
Via di Mezzo 23, Barga, Tuscany
$–$$
INFO TO GO
Two major airports serve Tuscany: Florence Airport, closest to the region’s capital with global airlines (Lufthansa, Swiss International Air Lines, British Airways) and direct flights from U.S. gateways; and Pisa International Airport, which lies roughly 50 miles from Florence but has a higher flight volume and range of destinations, specializing in low-cost European carriers (Ryanair, easyJet).
While Uber operates in Tuscany, the availability is quite limited and considerably weaker in rural areas, so travelers should either arrange for a car service or taxi or rent a vehicle for their stay. Rental cars are available at both major airports, and it’s suggested to opt for a smaller, more compact vehicle to more easily navigate the winding, narrow roads of the Tuscan countryside.
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