En route to Antarctica, somewhere deep in the Drake Passage, a crewmember poignantly reminded me, “The traveler sees what he sees; the tourist sees what he has come to see.” The quote, by English writer G.K. Chesterton, was an essential reminder Antarctica remains wild and untamed. Anything can happen during a trip to the frozen continent.

My trip aboard MS Fridtjof Nansen for a Highlights of Antarctica Cruise with HX Expeditions was filled with wonder, awe and surprises at every turn. My entire family agrees it was our favorite trip of all time.

© Jamie Davis Smith

There are a few ways to get to Antarctica. Most require getting to Ushuaia to board a ship. Ushuaia, at the tip of Tierra del Fuego in Argentina, is nicknamed the “End of the World,” and isn’t easy to get to. One of the reasons I chose HX for my family’s trip is they offer round-trip charter flights from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, making the journey much easier.

HX provided accommodations at 5-star Hilton Buenos Aires the night before our charter flight to Ushuaia. There, we had the opportunity to meet with HX representatives to confirm trip details and ask questions. We also had the chance to meet other explorers who would be on our ship.

Once in Ushuaia, HX arranged various activities while we waited to board. My family went on a short, guided hike and basked in a pool with incredible views. Others wandered around town before our adventure began in earnest.

© Jamie Davis Smith

Traveling to Antarctica by ship involves crossing the Drake Passage, some of the roughest waters in the world. Since I was traveling with my children, safety was the primary factor in choosing a travel company. HX has a long history of polar exploration, as well as some of the newest ships to traverse the seas to Antarctica.

Still, I was nervous as we set off in the Drake Passage. Some passengers are lucky enough to experience a calm Drake Lake. However, I experienced a classic Drake Shake on choppy seas. I was glad to be on a mid-sized boat with state-of-the-art stabilizers. With the help of some ginger candies and a Reliefband, I made it through the Drake with minimal discomfort.

As soon as I booked my trip, I took a complimentary course on Antarctica offered by HX to all passengers through University of Tasmania. I also watched documentaries, listened to podcasts and read books set on the continent. Yet, nothing prepared me for what I saw and experienced.

The size of icebergs was astounding up close. Some, unexpectedly, looked like expertly carved sculptures. The beauty of floating fields of ice with birds not found anywhere else left me speechless. Sailing through the Lemiere Channel was like stepping into a painting of an impossibly beautiful landscape. Throughout my trip, I saw mountains, volcanoes and pockets of crystal-clear blue dotting the otherwise black-and-white landscape. The wildlife throughout Antarctica, somehow able to survive in such a harsh environment, drove home the delicate balance needed for survival on planet Earth.

© Jamie Davis Smith

While in Antarctica, I got off the ship twice a day. Once a day, I hopped in a small Zodiac boat to explore the Antarctic landscape and wildlife up close. My Zodiac driver took us as close as possible to seals, whales and icebergs. Floating next to penguins swimming en masse in the ocean and seeing an enormous whale fluke rise meters away made me realize how wondrous and diverse life is on our planet, and why it’s so important to protect.

Additionally, each day a Zodiac ferried me to a landing site to set foot on Antarctica. At each site, I saw penguin colonies and a few baby chicks. I saw research stations at the forefront of science, some in use and others long abandoned but preserved as time capsules. I trekked through the snow and traversed glaciers. Once, I took off my boots and plunged into the freezing Antarctic Ocean.

In addition to the regular Zodiac rides and landings included in the cruise, HX offers additional experiences. My entire family loved walking along the continent in snowshoes. Another day, we took sea kayaks out and paddled alongside penguins and whales. A highlight of the trip for my husband and son was spending a night camping on the continent. Penguins came to visit their campsite as they settled in. My family also loved accompanying scientists on a science boat. We helped collect water samples and used specialized equipment to capture underwater sounds.

I thought I would have a lot of downtime on my journey through Antarctica, but I was always busy. One reason I chose HX is its comprehensive science program. On the ship, there were daily lectures from nearly every type of scientist relevant to the trip. I heard from a geologist and specialists in whales, birds, penguins and more. An on-board historian gave engaging lectures about the history of Antarctic exploration, often tied to our precise location. Even my children were riveted. I also had a few opportunities to examine samples collected during the trip under a microscope. I had daily opportunities to meet with onboard experts for wildlife spotting.

© Jamie Davis Smith

HX also offers onboard activities like decorating water bottles, painting with watercolors and creating a clay penguin. Onboard, there is also a library filled with books and a large selection of board games. I spent time in the ship’s hot tubs, heated pool, sauna, gym and spa.

I had a well-appointed, comfortable cabin with plenty of storage, which was cleaned daily. I loved sitting on my balcony and watching Antarctica’s vast and varied landscape and wildlife as I floated by.

My ship had a large Explorer’s Lounge with a bar. The lounge is a popular gathering spot for reading, relaxing and socializing, surrounded by expansive windows. Conversations and games were regularly interrupted by the sounds of excited passengers or crewmembers as they spotted whales or dolphins.

My ship had three onboard restaurants. One had scrumptious buffets for breakfast and lunch, and an à la carte menu for dinner. An on-board grill offered items like burgers and shakes throughout the afternoon, along with specialty dinners featuring Filipino, Indian, South American and Italian dishes. Suite guests also have access to a full-service restaurant with a high-end feel, although there is no dress code. Other guests can also dine at the restaurant for an additional fee.