Few things in the Big Apple have garnered as much attention lately as the highly anticipated reopening of Waldorf Astoria New York following a years-long renovation. With the hotel’s return come three food and beverage experiences, including the debut of brasserie Lex Yard, with Chef Michael Anthony, also executive chef and partner at Gramercy Tavern, at the helm as executive chef and partner.

© Paul Quitoriano

Born and raised in Cincinnati, Ohio, Anthony’s love of the culinary world can be traced to Japan where, under the guidance of Shizuyo Shima, he became enamored with the simple and seasonal approach to Japanese food. He spent five years in France in renowned kitchens before returning to the United States to work in other storied restaurants. He’s a multi-hyphenate when it comes to awards and accolades and is known for forging strong ties between restaurants and local farmers.

Two-story Lex Yard serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, including an à la carte selection and a seasonal fixed-price market menu (only available on the second floor).

WHICH FOOD IS YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE? AND ON THE OPPOSITE END OF THE SPECTRUM, WHAT IS ONE INGREDIENT OR FOOD YOU HATE TO USE?

Most definitely ice cream — across the board, all flavors. I don’t like using synthetic truffle oils, just not my thing.

WHAT DISHES WOULD YOU SERVE AT A PRIVATE DINNER PARTY?

It really depends. Who, what, when and where? My approach is always to think carefully about the context. Food works best as a supporting role and becomes even more appealing when it fits the occasion. Personally, I aim to use ingredients connected to the place where I’m serving them. That holds true whether I’m in New York, Tuscany or Tokyo — I focus on what’s in season and what excites the people from that region. Following that logic, right now in New York we can finally go all in on tomatoes. It hasn’t been the best year for them, but at last they’re having their moment.

© Paul Quitoriano

WHAT WAS THE FIRST MEAL YOU EVER PREPARED ON YOUR OWN?

The first “meal service” I cooked on my own was as a college student living in France. I shared an apartment with an economics professor and tried to join in his regular habit of cooking at home and hosting dinner parties. Very early on I prepared a meal by myself, without any formal training, taking responsibility for the entirety of the dinner. When I offered his girlfriend a taste of the dish I was working on, her simple and cutting response was, “This is dog food.” I was offended, and it stuck with me for years. It was some version of a Savoyard potato gratin.

But as I look back over the years, I realize my family has been the main recipient of the dishes I test out for my restaurants. I like my inspiration to come just as much from the way we cook at home as from the techniques and skills I’ve gathered while traveling around the world. My daughters are my chief critics, and wearing a white chef’s coat at work earns me no street cred at home.

IF YOU COULD DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE IN ONE DISH, WHICH DISH WOULD IT BE AND WHY?

If I had to choose a dish that exemplifies my personal style from the current Lex Yard menu, it would be Fairytale Eggplant, Pole Beans and White Miso Glaze. The dish appears in a category of our menu entitled Seasonal Vegetables. It represents the simplicity of selecting what looks best in the market, then using straightforward techniques that allow people to recognize the ingredients and enjoy it in our restaurant. The flavor profile draws from my time living in Japan, so there is a hint of Japanese inspiration in my cooking. At the same time, I created this dish to exemplify what it’s like to eat in the Northeast.

WHAT CULINARY TREND WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE DISAPPEAR?

I have always been and remain a huge fan of this industry. I am a lifelong student of food and wine. Over the years I’ve tried to stay true to my particular style while adding to the dialogue around contemporary American cooking. We need chefs who break down barriers so all of us can fully express ourselves. I don’t necessarily have those sharp, divisive takes around specific culinary trends, nor do I see it as a competition. What excites me is seeing people give more reverence to American cooking. I see it as a challenge, in the best way, to ensure we’re delivering elegance, approachability and fun. That is what defines American cooking, after all; it has to be elegant, approachable and fun.