I was surprised to learn Denmark consistently ranks among the world’s happiest countries. Sure, Scandinavia is lovely, but that Nordic weather hardly seemed conducive to soaring serotonin levels. When I finally visited Copenhagen, it all made sense. Whether you’re a fashionista, a Michelin-star chaser, a Viking history buff or just a curious traveler, the Danish capital promises an endless feast.

Copenhagen offers first-rate public transportation, but while in town, do as the Danes do and zip around by bicycle. First-time visitors, especially, will want to stay in a centrally located neighborhood to explore as much of the city as possible. I always recommend the Carlsberg District.

Hotel Ottilia © Visit Copenhagen / Abdellah Ihadian

The Carlsberg District dates back to 1847, when brewer J.C. Jacobsen established Carlsberg Brewery on a hill just outside Copenhagen. Over the next 160 years, the brewery evolved into a self-contained company town — an urban island framed by Cyclopean brick walls punctuated by ornate gates, reminiscent of the fortifications of Dubrovnik or Zadar. After Carlsberg moved its brewing operations in 2008, entrepreneurs converted the red-brick warehouses and former workers’ residences into opulent hotels, buzzy restaurants and museums. Today Carlsberg District remains one of Copenhagen’s poshest neighborhoods.

The jewel of the district is Hotel Ottilia, a boutique hotel housed inside two former brewery buildings. Named in honor of brewer Carl Jacobsen’s wife, Ottilia, the hotel marries industrial grandeur with sleek Danish design. Head to the lobby, a room of concrete ceilings, exposed steel and salvaged brewery trappings, to mingle with fellow guests and sip — what else? — a cold draft of Carlsberg.

Carlsberg’s Chalk Tower © Visit Copenhagen / Abdellah Ihadian

Copenhagen ranks among the world’s great gastronomic capitals alongside Tokyo, Paris and New York City. From market halls and street food to four-hour tasting menus in Michelin-starred temples, the pleasures of the palate offer reason enough to book a plane ticket. For a spectacular dinner within walking distance of Ottilia, head to Caronte, an art-bedizened trattoria serving Italian soul food with esoteric wines from the Mediterranean and Georgia.

Danish and Japanese cuisine share common ground in their emphasis on fresh fish, minimalist presentations and seasonality. Restaurant Levi, a quick taxi or bike ride from the Carlsberg District, blends Danish and Japanese ingredients into pure cross-cultural poetry.

The Carlsberg District juxtaposes cutting-edge urban planning with 19th-century industrial soul. Nowhere else in Copenhagen do the city’s past and future mingle so seamlessly.