Last fall’s Italian sojourn included part of a day in the charming town of Orvieto, in southern Umbria. Approaching from the south on the A1 on a sunny, warm fall day, we could see why the site has been inhabited since before the Etruscans. Perched on a rocky butte, protected by sheer cliffs and commanding a view over the lush valleys below, this would have been an easily defendable location in more treacherous times. Nowadays, visitors can ascend by cable car from the train station below or drive up on the roadway which winds around the butte and deposits one on top to admire those stunning views.

Of the several towns we visited on our trip, I think perhaps Orvieto was my favorite. Sizable enough to offer plenty of good shopping and a choice of eateries (population hovers around 20,000), it yet is small enough to easily explore in its entirety on foot. My only wish is that we had had more time to see more of its narrow streets, St. Patrick’s well, churches, nearby Etruscan tombs, cavas and museums.

After parking the car on the southern edge of town, we meandered up the Corso Cavour, lined with galleries, shops and restaurants. The quality of the crafts available here (woodwork, ceramics, textiles) and range of comestibles (wine, cheeses, sausages, olive oil) outshone what we had seen elsewhere, and the narrow streets and alleyways were clean and free of graffiti. The stone buildings with their ornate wooden doors embellished with elaborate iron handles and knockers are well-maintained and adorned with windowboxes and flowering vines.

Making our way upward toward the Torre del Moro with its prominent

Initial view of the Duomo of Orvieto

 clockface, we turned left onto the Via del Duomo, lined on both sides with more shops — these offering more touristy souvenirs and guidebooks as we neared the Piazza del Duomo. As we rounded a curve, the bulk of the cathedral loomed before us. I must honestly say that the sudden apparition of this amazing ediface struck me even more than did my first view of San Marco in Venice. It dominates its piazza, uncrowded by other structures, its towers piercing the bright blue sky.

Begun on the foundations of an Etruscan temple in 1290, the cathedral was completed in the 14th century with interiors that boast frescoes by Fra Angelico. I didn’t make it past the incredible façade, however, with its elaborate sculptures in marble and bronze and the enormous mosaics highlighted in glittering gold, depicting stories from the life of the Virgin Mary. In the center sits a glorious rose window to rival any in France. Throughout the day I observed how the varying angles of the sunlight brought some surfaces into high relief while others retreated into shadow, making for an ever-changing display. How had I never heard of this gorgeous church or seen pictures of it before?

I’m determined to return to Orvieto one day, and next time will be sure to allow for more time to explore its stunning cathedral, inside and out, as well as all the other delights it has to offer.

— Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor