A maritime behemoth by the 11th century, Venice once controlled vast stretches of the Mediterranean Sea and established itself as a merchant power, cornering the spice trade and collecting taxes and duties from vessels doing business in the area. The city profited hugely from the turmoil of the Crusades, and even led the Fourth Crusade that brought down Constantinople. With these riches, the local society espoused industries that could only be supported by a wealthy populace. Venice was the only place on the continent where you could acquire what is now called “Murano glass,” as well as opulent mirrors, lace and silks, while fueling a reinvigoration of mosaic art.

While these luxurious items are still produced in Venice, the city long ago gave itself over to its current economic stronghold: tourism. About 20 million people visit Venice each year, the majority being day-trippers, a consumer base so bountiful that virtually every reasonable plot of floorspace is occupied by retail, food or lodging establishments. The uncannily fish-shaped historic center of Venice is now home to a mere 62,000 residents, less than half the population it had the 1950s. The year-round tourist hoard aside, real estate prices and the constant threat of flooding have driven out all but the most determined residents, 25 percent of whom are over the age of 64.

The more urgent issue is the simultaneous sinking and decay Venice is battling. Since 1900, the historic center has dropped more than nine inches due to a global rise in sea levels and the slow recession of the wooden piles that support most of the city. Flooding is becoming more frequent, especially in November and Decem-
ber, reducing visitors to tottering through St. Marks Square on temporary raised walkways. The city may be uninhabitable by 2100 if global sea levels rise as expected. Meanwhile, the stagnant canals are increasingly disquieting, thanks to a canal dredging project in the 1960s, which interrupted the sea currents that used to flush them clean.

One potential solution: In 2002, Rome approved a controversial project to place 70 mobile barriers at the entrance to Venice’s lagoon that will activate during pronounced flooding. Work will be completed in 2011.

LODGING

CA’PISANI HOTEL

At this four-star hotel, just down the street from the famous Accademia art gallery and bridge, ancient wood beams peek out of high ceilings into warm rooms with copious, diffused light sources. It’s nice to look at (if a bit dark), which is good because the views are almost exclusively of encroaching walls. The high-end bathrooms have more spigots and knobs and ways to wash yourself than you could possibly need. Service can be rough around the edges, however. Amenities include free WiFi, a steam bath and a one-desk business center. Dorsoduro 979/a, tel 39 41 240 1411, http://www.capisanihotel.it $$$$

HOTEL CIPRIANI

Covering the entire eastern wedge of Giudecca Island in a villa that once belonged to the Mocenigo family, Hotel Cipriani is flirting with resort status, what with its wellness center, sports and activities, restaurants and Olympic-sized pool (the only one in Venice). Large, stylish rooms range from “antiquey” to artistic, with views of the gardens and lagoon that are arguably the best hotel room vistas in central Venice. The hotel can be reached both by its complimentary boat (St. Mark’s Square dock) or vaporetto water bus). Giudecca 10, tel 39 41 520 7744, http://www.hotelcipriani.it $$$$

CA’MARIA ADELE

Opened in 2004, this 12-room, 12-employee hotel is housed in a converted private residence designed and run by brothers with a wide hotelier history. With limited space, what could’ve easily been cramped has been made cozy. The tiny lounge can barely hold six people, but the dark wood, fur walls, cowhide couches, antiques and plentiful ornamentation will distract from the crowding.  Rooms start at “deluxe” and just get better, with excellent beds, immaculate bathrooms and great views (for Venice). Amenities include massage, free WiFi and airport pick-up, including water transfer to the hotel’s private slip. Dorsoduro 111, tel 39 41 520 3078, http://www.camariaadele.it $$$$

SAN CLEMENTE PALACE

Occupying an island south of Venice that it shares with the 11th-century San Clemente monastery, tranquility and un- Venice-like spaciousness are on offer at this 200-room, three-restaurant property. Endless hallways with comfy chairs, couches mirthfully over-encumbered with pillows and Internet-equipped computers (extra charge) mark the ground floor common areas. Rooms are elegant, though understated for Venice, with water pressure, high ceilings and squarefootage that’s unmatched in the historic center city. Amenities include tennis courts, an outdoor pool and a wellness center. The island is accessed via private boat, docked just off St. Mark’s Square. San Marco, Isola di San Clemente 1, tel 39 41 244 5001, http://www.sanclemente.thi.it $$$$

DINING

DA FIORE

On a very narrow, obscure street, this is Venice’s only restaurant with a Michelin star, which it’s held for 10 years. The short menu focuses on fish with occasional nods to vegetarian or lamb. Though the menu changes daily, you might find ravioli with seafood, green pasta with mussels and clams or roasted eel with celery and blueberry salad. Unfortunately, the service can be a bit terse and complacent. Closed Sundays, Mondays and all of January. San Polo, Calle del Scaleter 2202, tel 39 41 721 308, http://www.dafiore.com $$$$

LA FIASCHETTERIA TOSCANA

Barely 100 yards from the Rialto Bridge, this is a family owned restaurant serving tourists and locals since 1956. Though fish once again dominates the Venetian-centric menu, fished-out people can opt for the lamb with asparagus, calf liver “Venetian style” (with onions) or grilled Chianina beef sirloin steak. Upon overhearing that I was a journalist, patrons (French patrons!) actually grabbed my sleeve and sung praises about the food. Be prepared for dainty portions. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays for lunch only. Cannaregio, San Giovanni Grisostomo 5719, tel 39 41 528 5281, http://www.fiaschetteriatoscana.it $$$$

ALLE TESTIERE

Another difficult-to-find, all-fish affair (check out the phone booth-sized kitchen and you’ll understand why), with a menu that changes daily — even hourly — depending on what was caught that morning. This nine-table place fills up nightly on word-of-mouth alone — not a cent has been spent on advertising in its 10-year history. Starters include shrimp with artichoke salad, or soft-shelled crab. Entrees include linguini with clams and grilled sea bass with herbs and citrus. Just show up for lunch or reserve well in advance for dinner. Closed Sundays and Mondays. Castello, Calle del Mondo Novo 5801, tel 39 41 522 7220, http://www.osterialletestiere@yahoo.com

DA IVO
You pay (dearly) for excellence and style here, knowing you’re dining in the same tiny space as the likes of Pavarotti and Elton John, among many others over its 30-year history. The Venetian-Tuscan menu seemingly offers the typical fare (pasta, fish), though the quality and presentation set this place apart — to a point. Almost $20 for a “cup of ice cream”? Whoa. Admittedly, the daily special menu (grilled mushrooms, truffle tagliolini) induced hunger pangs in this writer, despite having just eaten a whole pizza. Lunch walk-ins welcome, reserve far in advance for dinner. Closed Sundays. San Marco, Ramo dei Fuseri 1809, tel 39 41 528 5004 $$$$

INFO TO GO

Marco Polo airport (VCE) is the main air gateway for the city. San Giuseppe airport (TSF), near Treviso, receives minimal traffic, most notably through budget carrier RyanAir. Both airports have 24-hour bus service (about 20 minutes and 65 minutes; $2.80 and $5.90 respectively) into the city and Marco Polo has “fast” ferry service($16, about an hour, http://www.alilaguna.com), as well as private water taxis (about $10 0 to St. Mark’s Square, with night and baggage surcharges). Venice’s vaporetti are almost $8 per ride (with baggage surcharge). Two types of all-inclusive transport/sightseeing cards are available to lessen the sting (http://www.venicecard.it). Water taxis have an $11.50 flagfall with a per minute charge of $1.70 thereafter. Gondola prices start at about $100 for 50 minutes (up to six passengers), with prices rising dramatically at night or for extended trips. A traghetto, “the poor man’s gondola,” for quick trips across the Grand Canal when a bridge isn’t handy, is just 70 cents. Look for the green signs.

DIVERSIONS

Just walking around will keep you enthralled, never mind the canals, architecture, art and history. The Easy Guide ($3.30) is a map/guidebook combo sold at tourist booths, highlighting 127 churches, palaces, museums, guildhalls, theaters and places of interest. “Easy” indeed. St. Mark’s Square and the Rialto Bridge are de rigueur. Other not-tobe- missed sights include, the Doge’s Palace in San Marco, the Correr Museum (St. Mark’s Square), dedicated to Venetian art and history, and the Gallerie dell’Accademia in Dorsoduro. But this is just barely scratching the surface. When you’re tired of walking, jump on vaporetto No. 1 at Piazzale Roma for a lazy tour of the entire length of the Grand Canal, terminating at St. Mark’s Square.

When the day-trippers clear out, Venice becomes almost serene. A few tiny clubs are wedged in the historic center, but serious clubbing is only found across the lagoon in Mestre. A typical Venice night starts with dinner at 7:30 p.m., then on to one of the live music lounges at 9 p.m. Popular lounges include Centrale (Piscina Fezzaria 165b, tel 39 41 296 0664) for Manhattan-like chillout, B Bauer inside the Bauer Hotel (San Marco 1459, tel 39 41 520 7022) for something classy and Martini (San Marco 1980, tel 39 41 522 4121, closed July and August), near La Fenice Opera House for a lively piano bar and dancing. Or drink the most expensive “Bellini” on Earth, where they were invented at historic Harry’s Bar (Calle Vallaresso 1323, tel 39 41 528 5777).