When I mention Canada’s Eastern Townships to friends, I receive either a cocked eyebrow, indicating they’ve never heard of the place, or a sublime smile radiating jealousy. Montréalers are well acquainted with this alluring lake-splashed landscape sprawling east of their city and north of New Hampshire and Vermont, but few others are in on the secret.

Québec Province blends French and English cultures with American, Abenaki and Celtic influences layered with a Québécois accent. Loyalists fled after the Revolutionary War; Southerners snubbed New England to vacation here following the Civil War; and Irish fleeing famine and Scots seeking opportunity were early pioneers. While history flavors the region, that’s not why my husband and I travel here. We come first and foremost to unwind in a place that soothes the soul, satiates the body, stimulates the mind and seduces the heart.

That’s a big promise from a relatively small region; and yet every time we return, we fall in love again with the local foods, wines, ice ciders, intimate inns, cozy auberges, Nordic spas and cycling trails. But most of all, we covet the landscape. It’s intimate here and expansive there, a tangle of lakes and mountains, farmlands and forests, vineyards and orchards, heritage villages and market towns — and lacing it all together are rural byways and back roads. One doesn’t come here to rush from site to site but rather to mosey.

Three marked driving routes — The Wine Route, The Townships Trail and The Summit Trail — ebb and flow through the region. To those add plentiful marked cycling routes, many on dedicated and often paved trails, and local maps detailing agricultural highlights such as cheese makers, ice cream stands and farm markets. My husband and I use them as touchstones, frequently detouring off the byways into the nooks and crannies, lured by the promise of a farmstead cheese, a chocolate shop, a gallery or simply a church steeple rising above the treetops.

Steeples lord over this landscape, spires of hope and promise rising above nearly every small village. I’m awed by the faith that lifted local farmers and shopkeepers to erect such magnificent edifices. But it’s not only villagers who heard the call. The architecturally modern Saint-Benoit-du-Lac, established by French Benedictine monks in 1912, graces the pastoral shoreline of Lake Memphrémagog. The abbey is not only a feast for the eyes but also the ear and the palate. By happenstance, we arrive during a service in Gregorian chant, a spiritual high that crosses religion’s borders. Afterward, we stock up on heavenly monk-produced cheeses and apple products, which we later shared as a lakeside picnic

Equally divine are views of the abbey from 27-milelong Lake Memphrémagog, which straddles the Québec and Vermont border. Here’s a conundrum: Although 80 percent of the lake is in Canada, 80 percent of its water comes from tributaries in the States. During Prohibition, alcohol flowed northward, too, ferried by enterprising smugglers who avoided the shadowy serpent legend says inhabits the lake’s depths. We ponder that while drinking in the views along with wine aboard the Grand Cru, an elegant excursion boat operated by Escapades Memphrémagog. Between courses on the three-hour dining cruises, we retreat to the deck to gaze at shoreline estates, the abbey and distant Owls Head Mountain, etched with ski trails.

Not only does Lake Memphrémagog straddle the border but also towns and even individual buildings within towns. The Haskell Free Library & Opera House is partially in Stanstead, Québec, and partially in Derby Line, Vt. Upon entering the library, the librarian cautions my husband to be sure we exit by the same door, or the border patrol will chase us down. Inside, a red line painted on the library floor divides the towns and the nations. It’s the only U.S. library without books — the stacks are in Canada — and the only U.S. theater with no stage — it’s in Canada, too. The dividing line is repeated in the richly ornamented upstairs opera house where, locals quip, the layout makes it possible to become an international star overnight.

The village of North Hatley hugs the northern tip of Lake Massawippi. Not much bigger than a blink and a nod, it makes up for its diminutive size with larger-than-life charm and a setting that flirts with precious. We dither between dining alfresco in a lakeside café but decide instead to pick up gourmet goodies in one of the markets for a light picnic. We don’t want to spoil our dinner later that evening at the nearby Manoir Hovey, a lakefront Relais & Châteaux member inn with a knockyour-socks-off dining room.

Forested mountains and expansive lakes give way to rolling hills with endless farmlands around Compton and Coaticook. No surprise this is considered Québec’s Dairy Bowl, but an aberration in the landscape is 164-foot-deep Coaticook Gorge, spanned by a 550-foot-long suspension bridge. I think the world’s best maple ice cream comes from the Laiterie de Coaticook, and the line at the counter validates my opinion. Before leaving, we purchase a bag of cheese curd, an ultra-fresh pop-in-the-mouth snack. For more finessed tastes, we detour off Compton’s main street to visit Fromagerie La Station for its prized Alfred Le Fermiet cheese (Did I mention we always tour the region with a cooler in the car, so we can purchase and stash goodies for later or even to bring home?), and consider making dinner reservations at Le Bocage, where the chef/owner sources most of the ingredients from the large gardens outside the dining room windows.

The market town of Magog has a few surprises, too. Sure, the lakefront gets all the attention with its paved cycling and walking paths, expansive parkland and picnic areas, but across from the park, just a 10-minute walk from downtown, is Le Marais de la Riviere aux Cerises. What a delight! We listen to birds sing and frogs croak, while strolling some of the four miles of trails and boardwalks looping through the wetlands.

With 22 wineries, numerous chocolateries and who knows how many farms, it’s easy to sip and savor one’s way through the region. The 100-mile Wine Route ebbs and flows south of Bromont. At Domaine Les Brome, I savor the panorama from its hillside perch along with ice wine, a Québec specialty, and maple products. Domaine Pinnacle, hugging the border east of Frelighsburg and with expansive views of Vermont’s Green Mountains, produces an exquisite ice cider, pressed in early winter from a blend of six apples harvested after the first frost. Vignoble Domaine Bresee, in Sutton, is earning fame for its unique white wine made from red grapes, an arduous, time-consuming process. Here we’d made advance reservations for a picnic spread comprising a basket filled with locally made bread, cheeses and patés along with sweets, and enjoy it overlooking the pond.

The Granby Zoo is one of only five accredited zoos in the country. It’s a special place, not only for the loving care given to the animals but also for its outreach and educational programs. Sure, anyone can spend an entire day here, two if one wants to enjoy the waterpark, but spending the night? Now that’s a different story. Next time, we’re booking The Night at the Zoo program, which allows up to 30 guests to remain after the last day visitor has departed and spend the night in a private, nofrills hut in the zoo’s African pavilion. For zoo fans, it’s worth foregoing creature comforts for an intimate stay with the resident creatures. The program includes a traditional multicourse African outdoor meal, a guided night safari through the zoo and African traditional music and snacks around a campfire. Wake the next morning for a special visit with the elephants and a light breakfast. One caveat: Unless you understand French, plan on booking a Customized Safari program.

Our favorite place to soak in the romance and spirit of Canada’s Eastern Townships is at Balnea, a Nordic spa in the private Bromont-sur-le-lac Nature Reserve. Nordic spas emphasize alternating hot and cold experiences with a rest after each cycle. It is the most indulgent, relaxing experience available, made even better by the setting and the facilities. Possibilities include Finnish sauna, Turkish bath, cold plunge pools, waterfall showers, a sweat lodge, hot tubs, a forest pool and a lake. In between, rest on lounge chairs on the dock, patios or beach; sip wine in the café; snooze or read in relaxation rooms; or watch a film in the cinema. Add a massage and, well, you’ll never want to leave.

Info To Go

Montréal-Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport (YUL) is approximately 60 miles from Granby, 77 miles from Sutton, 86 miles from Magog and 95 miles from North Hatley. A car is necessary to explore the region.

Lodging

Auberge Ripplecove & Spa

On the southern end of Lake Massawippi, the hotel offers elegant lakefront lodging, a full service spa and a top-notch dining room. 700 Ripplecove, Ayer’s Cliff $$–$$$$

Manoir Hovey

Built in 1900 as a summer home, the hotel’s magnificent lakefront setting is a perfect place to retreat and relax. 575 Rue Hovey, North Hatley $$$–$$$$

St-Christophe Boutique Hotel & Spa

The architecture and décor are French château, the setting is lakefront, and the facilities include a spa and a dining room. 255 Rue Denison E., Granby $$$

Dining

Auberge des Appalaches

Don’t be put off by the lackluster exterior or rustic décor. Chef/co-owner John Kostiuk is gaining attention for his creative use of local ingredients. 234 Chemin Maple, Sutton $$–$$$

Le Bocage

Chef/owner François Dubois prepares fare straight from the expansive gardens outside the dining room housed in a Victorian inn. 200 Moe’s River Road, Compton $$–$$$$

Manoir Hovey

Expect a leisurely meal emphasizing local ingredients, an awardwinning wine list and a cheese cart highlighting local raw milk and artisanal cheeses. Proper dress required. 575 Rue Hovey, North Hatley $$$–$$$$

Weblinks

Balnea Thermal Reserve
Domaine Pinnacle
Escapades Memphrémagog
Fromagerie La Station
The Haskell Free Library & Opera House
Tourism Eastern Townships
Vignoble Domaine Bresee
The Wine Route