Switzerland’s most famous exports — impeccably designed timepieces and luscious chocolate — are available around the world. Its wine, on the other hand, proves as elusive as an easy ascent up the Matterhorn. The Swiss understandably prefer to keep most of it for themselves, to sip après ski alongside bubbling fondue pots of melted Emmental. If you want to taste their homegrown beverage, imbued with crisp mountain air, intense sunlight and sparkling glacial waters, you might have to jump on a plane.
Lucky you.
Admittedly not the first European locale you might associate with wine, Switzerland has six winemaking regions, each influenced in terroir and tradition by one of the five countries it borders. In a country that outdoes itself with dreamy, postcard-like panoramic vistas, the enviable Lavaux region might just outcharm them all. View the terraced vineyards of the Lavaux, designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2007, from Lausanne, situated on Lac Léman across from the French town of Évian-les-Bains in the Savoie region. While the two share some local and international varieties, one stands as tall as those snow-topped craggy peaks. Chasselas dominates every wine list here, an indigenous white variety vinified in various styles from dry and light to richer and fuller-bodied. You might compare it to a less acidic, not quite as aromatic Sauvignon Blanc or chameleon-like Chardonnay, whose aromas and flavors vary depending on production methods like aging in oak (not so common) versus stainless steel, on or off the lees.
In general, Chasselas makes light-bodied expressions with notes of pear, yellow apple and white flowers, and a slightly waxy finish. It pairs nicely with cheese fondue with bread, cured meats and cornichons. The grape ripens early — perfect for the chilly Alpine climate — and is coaxed along by the sun that reflects off the lake and hits the sloped vineyards.
Before venturing to wine country, stay in Lausanne to get schooled in Chasselas. The Art Nouveau- and Neo-Baroque-style Beau-Rivage Palace hotel, dating to 1861, touts a staggering 75,000 bottles in its cellar, including 600 crus. At Anne-Sophie Pic, the hotel’s eponymous restaurant helmed by the world’s most Michelin star-decorated female chef, guests can select from almost 30 bottles from the Lavaux, including lauded Grand Cru wines from Dézaley and Calamin. (Pic is French but has beloved childhood memories of family gatherings in the region.)
Nearby, Brasserie Royal at Royal Savoy Hotel & Spa boasts nearly 40 bottles from the Lavaux to pair with Chef Ludovic Douteau’s seasonal local menu. (He frequents farmers markets for the weekly changing fixed-price Menu du Marche.)
Once you’ve piqued your palate, Royal Savoy’s concierge can plan an excursion to the Lutry Wine Trail, a scenic hiking trail through the vineyards to delve into Swiss wine culture. If that’s too ambitious after a multicourse lunch, the hotel can arrange for car service to explore nearby wineries.
A perfect spot to start or end the day is at a table on the stone terrace at family-owned Domaine Croix Duplex, perched high above the lake with the Alps as a backdrop, where winegrower-winemaker Maude Vogel may be on hand to guide you through a comparative tasting of Chasselas. If you swoon over what’s in your glass as much as you do those views, be sure to save room in your luggage.
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