The first time I flew into Mexico City, many years ago, I had no idea the city was surrounded by mountains, not to mention two snowcapped volcanoes looming in the distance. Since then, having returned many times, I remain captivated by the culture, the friendly locals and the rich historical sites.

Although the city continues to grow at lightning speed, with accompanying pollution and nightmarelevel traffic, I adore this sprawling capital with its centuries-old wonders left behind by the Aztecs and the Spaniards. While it abounds in tradition, Mexico City radiates a brandnew energy that blends the cuttingedge and the classic. And Mexican cooking is a true delight that some-how never tastes the same north of the border.

Mexico’s newly elected president, Felipe Calderon, is moving swiftly to form a working majority in order to pass needed reforms. Most residents of Mexico City agree it’s far too early to make any serious judgments about him. On the dark side of their conversational plate right now are crime and corruption. The country’s rising prominence in the film world, however, is a topic of joy, with Babel, Children of Men and Pan’s Labyrinth gaining international acclaim and even Oscar nominations for Mexican film directors.

Mexico City is nestled in a valley at the south center of the country. Its 570 square miles comprise many dis-tinct neighborhoods. The nervewracking challenges presented by trying to see them all can be amenably lessened by making some educated choices ahead of time. Touring is best done on weekends, when the traffic thins considerably.

My favorite place to stay is the Four Seasons Hotel Mexico D.F., a refuge from the city’s constant hustle and bustle. Breakfast in the garden is a special treat (don’t miss the chilaquiles, tortilla strips mixed with salsa and served with eggs). A few steps away is El bar, the perfect predinner stop for margaritas and music, and on the weekends the hotel offers cultural tours led by art historians.

From the hotel, it’s a short drive to Condesa and Roma, neighborhoods that are ripe for exploration. Condesa was settled by Jewish immigrants in the 1930s, and was later a bohemian enclave. Now it claims Condesa df Hotel, one of the city’s trendiest places to stay, with a long list of celebrity guests. Its lively roof bar is another perfect spot for sipping margaritas. The art deco architecture in Condesa reminds me of Miami’s South Beach. Shady tree-lined streets are lined with galleries, shops, cafes and restaurants, which, I discover, are prime turf for people-watching. After I’ve taken in the sights and sounds, I dive into Artefacto and Daniel Espinosa to see some of the latest Mexican jewelry designs.

In neighboring Roma, I meet friends for lunch at Contramar, a wonderful fish restaurant where politicians and actors work the room like it’s their own private club. In fact, Contramar looks and feels more like a casual beach restaurant transplanted from Acapulco. I begin with toothpick-size river fish crisply fried and served over tortillas, followed by the restaurant’s famed grilled fish which is split open and served with red sauce on one side and green on the other. At 2 p.m. most of the tables remain empty. By 4 p.m. however, locals are waiting in line for a coveted spot. The restaurant serves only lunch, albeit a late one.

Later, I visit posh Polanco, the city’ neighborhood diamond. On sophisticated Avenida Presidente Masaryk, smart new boutiques and restaurants open like jacaranda blossoms in springtime. Once mainly residential, the neighborhood has seen many of its gorgeous Spanish-style mansions transformed into shops. Polanco also is home to some of the city’s most talented chefs, including Enrique Olvera, chef-owner of Pujol. Served in a modest contemporary setting, Olvera’s cuisine is inspired by Spain’s famous El Bulli as well as Mexican tradition. His adventuresome menu on this night includes a quesadilla made into a foam and a delicious de constructed lemon pie. I leave absolutely sure that the restaurant’s glowing reputation remains intact.

On another evening, I head to Izote, also located in Polanco, where chef and cookbook author Patricia Quintana creates delicious modern versions of traditional Mexican favorites in unpretentious surroundings. Her ancho chiles caramelized with raw brown sugar and stuffed with pureed refried beans is pure delight.

My only disappointment was being unable to return to another favorite, Aguila y Sol; having arrived in Mexico City a bit too early for its reopening in a new location. Instead, I shift gears and drive a mile or so up the road to Naos, a stylish restaurant as hot as the local chiles. Owner Monica Patino manages to draw well-dressed crowds to Naos with an appealing menu that extends from Mexico (Yucatan tortilla) to the Mediterranean and beyond (Philippine ceviche with coconut milk).

Finally, I visit the city’s historic center where I head to the Zocolo, the world’s second largest square. What I really want to see is the latest Aztec find: a large stone monolith discovered by archaeologists just last fall. The artifact now resides in the Templo Mayor, alongside the Aztec treasures that were uncovered by workmen in the 1970s when they were building the city’s subway.

Having personally experienced the much-improved downtown and enticing pockets of this thriving capital, no one has to convince me that a new Mexico City is emerging.