I grew up in a very ethnically diverse area of Chicago. However, within that diversity were businesses with specific rich ethnic traditions. Despite my surname, I am Italian (on my mom’s side). I fondly recall going to places like Santucci’s and Angelo’s when I was a youngster. These places had a very real Italian essence to them. You felt it immediately upon entering. These places are fairly rare these days, but I know of one.

Rex Italian Foods in Norridge, IL, isn’t just an Italian deli. It is like a genuine slice of Italy. The Pinello family has operated Rex’s since 1993, although its roots date back to the 1960s. There’s a deli counter full of premium Italian lunchmeat, home-cooked beef, sausage and pastas. They have shelves of packaged Italian foods as well. None of this is what really makes Rex’s stand out.

When you enter, Mrs. Pinello greets you and offers a free sample all in the same breath. (“Offers” is really too soft a word, if you know Italian cooks!) To the left are a few tables, where you are likely to find robust conversations in Italian (complete with lots of hand waving). To your right is a sweets display (if the cannoli at the deli case isn’t enough for you). Soft Italian music gently plays in the background.

According to Anthony Pinello (son of Sam and Pina), “The homemade meat lasagna, our schiacciatas and our Italian subs are the three most popular items.” A schiacciata is similar to a calzone, but “the crust surrounding the ingredients is very thin so you really taste all the ingredients,” explained Anthony. To your humble (and hungry) blog writer, my favorite meal is the chicken crostata, a cannoli and one of their award-winning large Cokes.

Rex’s is a quick 15-minute trip from O’Hare Airport. If you are heading downtown from O’Hare, it is only about five minutes off the Kennedy Expressway at Harlem Avenue. I have made that five-minute detour many times.

Like most hidden gems, people often suggest new locations to the Pinello family. They have considered the option, but have no plans to move. I am sure people would like a Rex’s in their neighborhood, but plenty are willing to make the drive to go to the one and only Rex’s.

When I am in Rex’s, I always get the same familiar feeling of being back in one of the businesses in my old neighborhood. Immediately, I feel like family, and not because I am Italian. They know me as “Coca-Cola guy” (but that is another whole story). However, you don’t have to be Italian to feel welcome. Walking in the door instantly makes you family. That’s just the Rex’s way. I hope (and am pretty sure) it will never change!

-John Wroblewski (aka the Coca-Cola guy), distribution specialist