Last month we welcomed some out-of-town guests; and although they were only here for two nights, we managed to give them a sample of the range of possibilities available to visitors to the Rogue Valley here in Southern Oregon. The only aspect we missed sharing with them is the range of outdoor options, from jet boating and whitewater rafting to hiking and fishing, exploring Crater Lake to checking out the redwoods. Maybe next time! Nevertheless, we got in a little wine tasting, sampled the food scene and took in a play during their short stay.

On our first evening, we drove into Ashland, about 30 minutes from our home, to have dinner at a favorite little restaurant of ours, Cocorico. I think it’s always interesting to note how an establishment defines itself, and this charming, husband and wife-owned spot identifies as a “neo rustic kitchen” and “a festive European-style eatery serving modern Mediterranean cuisine.” Chef Nat Borsi, a native of France, offers a menu of bistro-style dishes that yet show a sophisticated understanding of ingredients, all regionally sourced.

We started with a shared bowl of Washington state clams, swimming in a broth of chicken stock and white wine; sprinkled with shisito peppers, grilled corn and chorizo; and served with grilled garlic bread. The flavors blended beautifully,  and we ordered an extra serving of the bread, heavily sprinkled with Parmesan, to soak up every drop of the delicious broth. We brought a bottle of Mer de Soleil Chardonnay to accompany the clams . . . a perfect pairing.   For dinner, we each chose a different entrée, and each was so satisfying, with subtly complementing flavors and textures in every bite. I couldn’t resist ordering the evening special of a bone-in pork chop served with a creamy yogurt-turmeric sauce, sautéed cherry tomatoes, fava beans, peas and apricot chutney with smoked paprika. Our friend Tim chose the braised lamb shank (a dish I’ve tried and loved in the past) complemented by a bed of polenta, spicy rose harissa, preserved lemons and jus.  His wife, Teri, opted for pasta with veal, beef and pork meatballs and tomatoes, Parmesan and ricotta. As you can see, it could have fed two, easily! Harry chose a pasta dish he’s enjoyed before, a creamy carbonara with bacon, caramelized onions, egg yolk and lots of Parm. We enjoyed our own bottle of a Leonetti Cellars 2012 Merlot, just right with each of our meals.   We regretfully turned down dessert, both because we were pleasantly full and because we had a show to get to. Our server was extremely helpful and friendly throughout the evening (as we’ve found all our servers to be when dining here), and he obliged us by taking a photo or two to commemorate our evening.

We then headed up the hill to the Elizabethan Theatre on the Oregon Shakespeare Festival campus. We looked forward to a production of Stephen Sondheim‘s Into the Woods, a play Harry and I saw on the same stage 10 years ago and a favorite of ours. We always enjoy seeing a show on the outdoor stage, under the stars, and it’s always interesting to see how the flexible Elizabethan stage and different levels are used in each production. On this evening the orchestra, consisting of both professional musicians and students, was seated on two levels on the stage itself. We thoroughly enjoyed the performances, staging and costumes; rarely have we been disappointed by an OSF production.

The next day Teri and I drove out to the nearby community of Eagle Point to visit the 150-year-old Butte Creek Mill. On the National Register of Historic Places, this water-powered flour mill nearly burned to the ground in 2015 but with a community-wide effort was completely rebuilt using the traditional tools and methods (hand-hewn timbers, mortise-and-tenon joints) of the original structure (Southern Oregon’s version of the rebuilding of Notre-Dame). We toured through the resurrected building, the smell of fresh-cut lumber lingering in the air, and admired all the antiques and historical photos which adorn the walls. Of course, we had to shop in the Country Store, chock-full of a variety of stone-ground flours, baking mixes, herbs and spices, local honey, kitchenware, and so much more. We appreciated the clerk’s advice on which flours to pick up for specific purposes, from sourdough bread to cakes and pastries.

Stocked up, we headed back home to pick up our fellas and make a visit to Rogue Creamery, maker of award-winning cheeses, particularly blue cheese (including Rogue River Blue, named the World Champion at the 2019/20 World Cheese Awards) since 1933. We sampled several cheeses (both the creamery’s and other domestic and international types) before settling on a handful to take home. We then introduced Teri and Tim to one of the newer wineries in our valley, Hummingbird Estate. The historic 1926 property, a former orchardist’s home and orchard, has been lovingly restored and boasts expansive views over the valley from its perch high on a hill, the vineyards ranked below. We sat on the shaded outdoor terrace of the tasting room, enjoying a glass of wine, the view and conversation. I thought it would be lovely to stay in one of the five guestrooms on the second floor of the home and take in a sunrise over Mt. McLoughlin from there.

We made our way back home and enjoyed a wonderful dinner of Harry’s nearly-as-famous-as-his-baklava risotto. The next morning, after a breakfast accompanied by a floor show provided by our resident hummingbirds, we saw our friends off on the next leg of their journey, happy to have been able to share some of our Rogue Valley highlights with them.

— Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor