A decade ago, due to its notoriously horrible traffic, smog-filled streets and a reputation as the world’s hottest city, one night in Bangkok was, in the words of the 1985 Murray Head hit song, enough to make “a hard man humble”-even the most jaded road warrior. The problems of the city were more than cosmetic: Several military coups rocked the administration prior to 1992, when a democratic government was restored following intervention by the king. Unfortunately, that peace was followed by devaluation of the baht and, in 1997, an economic crash.

Today, the city of 8 million residents is putting on a fresh face for both travelers and the business world and is reclaiming its reputation as Thailand’s spiritual, cultural, political, commercial, educational and diplomatic center. The present government, stable and popular, is expected to win elections that will likely be called in early 2005.The city is recovering from its financial problems, and, while the temperature is as toasty as ever, Bangkok is now hot in other ways. Both local and international investment is pouring into the city, adding new infrastructure, high-rise hotels and state-of-the-art transportation. This growth is a sign of a rising economy and a gross national product that has expanded 6.4 percent this year, the largest growth since the economic downturn of 1997. Along with healthy electronic-goods and food-processing industries, the region is also welcoming more automotive manufacturers and auto-parts industries. AutoAlliance, a joint partnership between Ford and Mazda, is investing $500 million in new production facilities while General Motors is launching a $650 million project to begin production of the Chevrolet Zafira. Construction of new plants-coupled with new hotels (such as the Conrad Bangkok, the Metropolitan Bangkok and the Banyan Tree Bangkok), new housing projects and transportation hubs-has also led to an increase in business for the local concrete industry.

But all is not new in Bangkok. Despite the influx of modern, aboveboard industries, Bangkok remains home to a thriving back alley economy. Much to the dismay of clothing, software and other manufacturers worldwide, Bangkok is known for its ready supply of black market goods. According to The Statesman’s Yearbook, an annual guide to the political, economic and social status of every country in the world, the black market accounts for approximately 70 percent of Thailand’s official gross domestic product. Prostitution also remains a major industry; approximately 200,000 people are affiliated with Thailand’s sex trade, the majority of them working in Bangkok. Recently, the country began to show signs it may consider legalizing this “world’s oldest profession.”

Although these problems remain integral to Bangkok life, other difficulties have been eased in recent years. Bangkok’s legendary traffic problems have abated thanks to new mass-transit developments. Since December 1999, the air-conditioned Bangkok Transit System has whisked business travelers from point to point on a rail system perched above the commercial district. At present, three-day tickets cost 280 Baht ($7) for unlimited rides. Locallyknown as the rot fai fah, Thai for “Skytrain,” these cars connect travelers from points ranging from the movie theaters at Siam Square to the Chatuchak weekend market. Trains depart about every three minutes, and signage is in English as well as Thai.

This spring, Bangkok will conduct a test run of a subway system that’s scheduled to open Aug. 12. Especially useful for business travelers, the subway will run from the city’s main railway station, Hua Lamphong, and link the Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre, hotels, shopping centers and business districts as well as serve four interchange stations connecting to the Skytrain.

The big news for next year is the opening of the New Bangkok International Airport, also known as Suvarnabhumi (Golden Land) Airport (www.bangkokairport.org), slated for September 2005. A key investor in the $2.7 billion project has been Thai Airlines, the national carrier of the Kingdom of Thailand and Asia’s sixth-largest air carrier. The new airport will boast the world’s largest single terminal complex and is designed to handle more than 40 million passengers per day, all from a location less than 20 miles east of Bangkok. Once the new airport is open, the present airport, Don Muang, will be used exclusively for domestic flights.

All these changes are allowing travelers to slow down and enjoy the exotic allure of the city. A bevy of new, elegant hotels is providing an oasis in the city; travelers can hop off the Skytrain and promptly duck into the new Conrad Bangkok on Wireless Road to relax in their guestroom, or opt for a jog on the track, or a game of tennis. Better yet, pop into the spa for a signature Well-Being massage-a body scrub with cleansing lime blossom followed by a head-to-toe application of rebalancing oil. It’s a treatment the city itself seems to have enjoyed. So
much so that many visitors are discovering that another line from that Murray Head tune more aptly describes the city.

“One night in Bangkok and the world’s your oyster.”

Hotels

The Oriental Bangkok Hotel
The city’s best-known hotel is more than a place to stay: For many travelers, it is an attraction as well. First built in 1876, all that remains of the original structure is the Authors’ Residence, with suites named for some of the hotel’s most stellar guests including
Somerset Maugham, Noel Coward and Graham Greene. Today the 358-room, 35-suite hotel has two
modern wings and, although it still draws its share of celebs, impeccable service helps make every guest feel like a star. Eight restaurants and bars, a spa featuring Thai massage, two pools, tennis and squash are available. There’s also a business center for times when there’s work to be done.
The Oriental Bangkok Hotel, 48 Oriental Ave.
Bangkok, Thailand, tel 66 02 659 9000, fax 66 02 659 000
www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok

The Metropolitan, Bangkok
Frequent travelers to the United Kingdom might feel at home at this new hotel, a sister property to London’s Metropolitan. A member of the swank design hotels-a consortium of design-oriented hotels worldwide-The Metropolitan, Bangkok retains the modern chic appeal of its older sibling, complemented by an exotic allure that’s pure Bangkok. Each of the hotel’s 171 rooms, rumored to be the city’s largest, includes an oversized limestone and mosaic tiled bath and amenities that range from a yoga mat to high-speed Internet access with wireless LAN options. Two pools, a spa, a yoga studio, and several restaurants round out the offerings.
The Metropolitan, Bangkok, 27 S. Sathorn Road
Bangkok, Thailand, tel 800 337 4685 or 66 02 625 3333
fax 66 02 625 3320, metropolitan.como.bz
www.designhotels.com

Banyan Tree Bangkok
Formerly the Westin Banyan Tree, this all-suites hotel reopened in January 2002 after a massive refurbishment, unveiling what it calls the city’s “first executive club to look after the sensory pleasures of business travelers.” Along with state-of-the-art business facilities, the
city’s tallest hotel offers exclusive spa facilities on its 20th, 21st and 51st to 54th levels. After a day of meetings, guests enjoy complimentary 10-minute neck and shoulder massages, and access to a private sky deck, current pool, Jacuzzi, sauna and steam bath. To further show that work and play can go hand in hand, a club concierge arranges spa treatments and also offers secretarial support.
Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 S. Sathon Road
Bangkok, Thailand, tel 800 525 4800 or 66 02 679 1200
fax 66 02 679 1199, www.banyantree.com

The Royal Benja Hotel
Accessible to other parts of the city via the nearby Skytrain, this moderately priced property offers airport transfers (the present airport is about a half-hour drive away), meeting facilities, a business center, pool and health club. Rooms are standard, with fewer decorator
touches than those found in pricier hotels, but with all the necessities-including direct-dial phones, mini fridge and television.
The Royal Benja Hotel, 39 Sukhumvit Road Soi 5
Bangkok, Thailand, tel 66 02 655 2958
fax 66 02 655 2920, www.royalbenja.th.com

Restaurants

Thanks to long workdays followed by long commutes, Bangkok residents have always valued the option of dining out, regardless of income level. As a result, the city is filled with restaurants, ranging from trendy cafés that could hold their own against competition in New York or Paris to sidewalk stalls where the dinner tab can be paid out from spare change. At latest count, the city boasted more than 50,000 eateries, not including numerous street vendors.

Thai food remains tops. While locals tend to prefer a spice level that surpasses fiery, most restaurants are willing to offer foreigners a milder alternative. Seafood, Chinese and Indian cuisines are popular and Italian eateries are gaining a following. Most large hotels offer continental dishes and many American specialties.

Lord Jim
Open for lunch and dinner, this eatery, named for a character created by 19th century writer Joseph Conrad, overlooks the Chao Praya River. Its popular lunch buffet includes specialties with Californian, Japanese, Thai or Indian fare. A lá carte dinner selections are heavy on seafood (Sushi and Sashimi). There’s live music most evenings. Average cost per person is $35.
Lord Jim, Oriental Hotel, 48 Soi Oriental
Bangkok, Thailand, tel 66 02 659 9000
www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/

Le Café Siam
Located in a renovated colonial-style mansion dating to the 1920s, this is one of the city’s best French restaurants. Specialties such as grilled tenderloin in Béarnaise sauce and herb-crusted rack of New Zealand lamb share the bill with gourmet Thai dishes like deep-fried red sea bass topped with sweet and sour sauce. Average cost per person is $45.
Le Café Siam, 4 Rama IV Road, Bangkok, Thailand
tel 66 02 671 0030, fax 66 02 671 0031
www.lecafesiam.com

Shenanigan’s The Irish Pub & Restaurant
A favorite among Bangkok’s sizable population of expatriates, this genuine Irish pub is open for lunch and dinner daily. Lunch buffets are an all-you-can-eat orgy with daily specials ranging from pastas to international fare to carvery items. Authentic Irish fare includes beef
and Guinness pie; cottage pie; and Irish stew with liver, bacon and onions. Chicken Tikka Masala, England’s most popular curry dish, is always a favorite. Average cost per person is $15.
Shenanigan’s The Irish Pub & Restaurant
1/5-6 Convent Road, Sivadon Building (off Silom Road)
Bangkok, Thailand, tel 66 02 266 7160
fax 66 02 631 1013, www.shenanigans-bangkok.com

Nightlife

Bangkok’s infamous Patpong district, known for its live sex shows and prostitution, may be the most publicized aspect of the city’s nightlife but it’s far from the only option. Bangkok after dark remains Asia’s most action-packed scene. The local quest for sanuk (fun) rules, and it can be found in the numerous bars across the city, most of which serve food and many of which offer live music.

Clubs along Silom Road and Sukhumvit Road are popular with visitors and locals alike. Admission to discos costs about $5 to $10 and generally includes a drink or two. Cover charges often
double on Fridays and Saturdays. Night markets are another popular option. Both Patpong and Silom Road feature night markets that attract thousands (including pickpockets) in search of everything from fake Rolex watches to video games.

Shopping

Bangkok has a well-deserved reputation as one of Asia’s top shopping cities. Regardless of budget, shopping opportunities abound. Venues range from modern, air-conditioned malls to
sidewalk markets where bargaining is the order of the day.

Thailand is the world’s largest producer of rubies and sapphires. Both can be found in the city’s numerous jewelry shops, usually set in 22 karat gold. Diamonds, cultured pearls from Phuket, and Burmese jade are other top purchases. Stick to reputable
stores to avoid buying fake gems.

Thai silk is another local specialty. Skilled tailors will turn out made-to-order suits, dresses and shirts in a matter of days. Home decorating items-anything and everything from
mother-of-pearl trays to celadon, a Thai ceramic usually finished in a jade tone-are popular. Wooden and bronze images are readily available in Bangkok’s antique shops, but the Thai government prohibits the export of any Buddha image.

For big-ticket items, head for the air-conditioned comfort of shopping malls like Siam Centre, Mahboonkrong, Oriental Plaza and Amarin Plaza. For local crafts, the Queen’s Chitralada chain of stores, and Narayana Phand, the government handicrafts center, are top choices. For weekend visitors, a stop at the market at Chatuchak-featuring handicrafts from throughout Asia-is a must>

Exploring the City

Grand Palace

(Thanon Nophralan, tel 66 02 224 1833.) The former home of the Thai royal family, this site offers free English tours. Modest dress is required.

Baan Jim Thompson

(Soi Kasem San 2, off Siam Square, tel 66 02 215 0122.) Former home of the lost American architect Jim Thompson, who brought Thailand’s silk trade to fame.

Chatuchak Weekend Market

(Thanon Phahonyothin near Chatuchak Park.) This weekend market is Asia’s largest, offering silks, antiques, crafts and more.

Wat Po

(Thanon Maha Rat, tel 66 02 222 0094). Site of the gold-leaf-covered Reclining Buddha, this
temple is the city’s oldest and the largest in Thailand. It’s also home to a school noted for
teaching the art of traditional Thai massage. Visitors can sign up for an invigorating sample.

National Museum

(Thanon Naphratad 1, tel 66 02 224 1405.) Housed in a former palace, this museum showcases Thai art and archaeology.

Want to Go?

Thailand’s national carrier, Thai Airways, operates flights from the United States (via Los
Angeles) to Bangkok. Other carriers connecting the United States to Thailand include Japan
Airlines, Singapore Airlines, Eva Airways, All Nippon Airlines and Cathay Pacific. For more
information about visiting or doing business in Bangkok, contact the Tourism Authority of
Thailand (www.tat.or.th). The organization operates two offices in the United States-one in Los Angeles and one in New York.

Tourism Authority of Thailand

611 N. Larchmont Blvd., 1st Floor
Los Angeles, CA 90004, tel 323 461 9814
fax 323 461 9834, .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

Tourism Authority of Thailand

61 Broadway, Suite 2810, New York, NY 10006
tel 212 432 0433, fax 212 269 2588, .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)