The coffee seller advertised his wares with the flourish of a brass pot that glinted in the desert sun as he poured the fragrant liquid into a Lilliputian-sized cup. In downtown Amman’s Hashemite Courtyard, we drank the robust beverage, asked for another, then finished the steamy drink with a traditional side-to-side shake of the cup signaling no further refills were needed.

Coffee, a symbol of Arabian hospitality, is enjoyed throughout the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. Often flavored with the heady taste of cardamom, the coffee served in tiny cups is strong and full of flavor, much like the country itself. A tranquil land in a sea of conflict, Jordan (www.seejordan.org) remains a friend to Western travelers. The diplomatic efforts initiated by the late King Hussein are today carried out by his son, King Abdullah, whose image presides over many Jordanian streets.

Nowhere is the continued influence of King Hussein seen more than in Jordan’s capital city, Amman (www.ammancity.gov.jo). This ancient city has been a gathering place since 7000 B.C. Once named Philadelphia in honor of the Ptolemaic ruler Philadelphus, the city later became part of the Roman Empire. Many of Amman’s most picturesque historic structures date to its days under Roman rule. Through the centuries, its landscape changed as each civilization that inhabited the region left its mark in the form of churches, mosques, souks and castles throughout the city and across the seven hills or jabals that surround the city.

Today Amman and its suburbs span not seven but 21 hills. The population of this modern metropolis grew in waves driven by immigration during the Arab-Israeli conflicts in 1948 and 1967, as well as during the Gulf War. Still, we found that the capital had melded old with new, its traditional gold souk just steps from modern corporate headquarters and business hotels.

And, for all its growth, Amman still lives up to its nickname — “white city.” The moniker refers to the predominance of limestone used in the construction of buildings housing everything from government offices and residential apartments to corporate headquarters and such top hotels as the Grand Hyatt, Le Meridien and Radisson SAS.

The business hotels serve as home base for many travelers involved in the city’s growing pharmaceutical and information technology industries, which, along with more traditional industries, drove exports to record levels in 2004.

Amman’s hills are also home to many of the city’s historic sites. After your business is done, consider taking one of the many guided tours of the city. Or hire a local taxi (be sure to have one of your hotel’s business cards, written in Arabic, on hand in case your driver does not speak English). One of the top stops is the Citadel, where the Temple of Hercules has stood watch over the region since A.D. 156. Beneath the temple stones lie the remains of a sixth century B.C. temple built to replace an even earlier temple destroyed by King David. Those artifacts aren’t the only ancient artifacts at this site, though; nearby the Jordan Archaeological Museum contains a small collection that includes the Dead Sea Scrolls, which were found in Jordan.

Near the temple columns, we took in a sweeping view of the city, including the royal Raghadan Palace where the late King Hussein now lies buried in a simple grave. King Hussein’s grandfather was known to call this particular palace, one of many scattered across the country, “the big one.”

From this vantage point you will also see Amman’s largest mosque, the King Abdullah Mosque. Also known as the Blue Mosque, the structure was built as a memorial to Hussein’s grandfather, King Abdullah I, who was assassinated in 1951, catapulting his grandson onto the world stage at the tender age of 18. (King Talal, King Abdullah I’s eldest son, assumed the throne immediately following his father’s death, but ruled for less than a year due to illness.) At the mosque, where women are given an abaya or black gown to wear along with a head covering, we were welcomed as visitors.

Half-day tours take travelers to one of the nation’s most ancient sites: Jarash. One of the Middle East’s most prosperous cities in the second century, Jarash was home to 30,000 residents in its heyday. Today the historic city, with its tall columns and Roman theater, is the second most visited attraction in Jordan.

No time for a tour outside the city? You’ll still find ancient ruins right in Amman, including the Amphitheater. Seating about 6,000, the restored site is still used for performances today. And, the surrounding area is a popular spot for residents to enjoy coffee or conversation — a perfect way to conduct business in a setting that’s a symbol of the capital city of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan.

Business in Jordan
The United States and Jordan enjoy a healthy trade relationship; Jordan’s U.S. exports rose from $13 million in 1998 to $1 billion in 2004. Since 2000, Jordan has enjoyed a Free Trade Agreement with the United States. Top exports include garments, jewelry, phosphates, potash, fertilizers and chemicals. Jordan’s pharmaceutical and information technology industries are also growing in importance.

Investment in Jordan
In 2003, the Bilateral Investment Treaty between the United States and Jordan was ratified. The treaty ensures that U.S. companies in Jordan and Jordanian companies in the United States are treated as favorably as their competitors. The treaty also guarantees free transfer of earnings from investments and permits investors recourse to internationally accepted dispute settlement mechanisms.

Visas
Visas are required; the cost of one entry visa valid for six months is approximately $17. For a multiple-entry visa valid for six months, the cost is about $32. Business travelers need a letter from an employer stating the purpose of the trip. Citizens of the United States, Mexico, South America and Western Europe can obtain a visa upon arrival at the airport in Amman.

Additional Sources of Information

AMMAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
P.O. Box 287, Amman 11118, Jordan
tel 962 6 566 6151 4, fax 962 6 566 6155
.(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

www.ammanchamber.org/default_en.asp

AMERICAN EMBASSY
P.O. Box 354, Amman 11118, Jordan
tel 962 6 590 6000, fax 962 6 592 0121
amman.usembassy.gov
For business questions:
.(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

For visa questions:
.(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

EMBASSY OF THE HASHEMITE KINGDOM OF JORDAN
3504 International Drive N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20008
tel 202 966 2664, fax 202 966 3110
.(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

www.jordanembassyus.org

EMBASSY OF THE HASHEMITE KINGDOM OF JORDAN: ECONOMIC AND COMMERCE BUREAU
3504 International Drive N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20008
tel 202 362 4436, fax202 244 0239

JORDAN TOURIST BOARD
www.see-jordan.com

THE NATIONAL INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY CENTRE OF JORDAN
www.nic.gov.jo