There are two views of Hong Kong’s economic success. Literally. One is of a breathtaking skyline, a veritable forest of high-rise apartments and state-of-the-art corporate headquarters. In the other view, the same panorama reduces to a murky wash of indistinct shapes and shadows.

As Hong Kong booms and the nearby industrial hubs of the Pearl River Delta huff out thickening plumes of pollution, the consequences permeate the air. For around a third of the days each year, smog blots out the city. Although steps are being taken to tackle the problem, for current visitors a certain amount of flexibility — and luck — is required in order to see the famous skyline at its best.

At the first sign of a clear day, head to Victoria Peak, the 1,811-foot volcanic massif dominating Hong Kong Island. Getting to the viewing tower is half the fun. From the busy streets of Central District there is a funicular railway — the Peak Tram — that has carried passengers up the steep mountainside since 1888. The journey takes five minutes and costs $5 roundtrip. At the top, the Sky Terrace 428 provides a 360-degree panorama of the island, including a magnificent view across the harbor to the mainland district of Kowloon.

The quickest way from the island to the mainland is the Mass Transit Railway under the harbor. But on a clear day that would mean missing out on the stunning view of the city that can be experienced from the upper deck of the Star Ferry during the 10-minute crossing.

On the mainland, you inevitably will be drawn into the maelstrom of famous shopping streets such as Nathan Road and the exhilaratingly claustrophobic warren of indoor alleys in the retail malls of Chungking Mansions. But whenever Kowloon appears to be closing in on you, relief is close at hand. Just head to the Avenue of the Stars, a pedestrianized promenade on the harbor waterfront.

The avenue is interspersed with handprints and statues of famous stars of the Chinese cinema, including director John Woo and the legendary martial artist Bruce Lee. It is also the perfect vantage for “A Symphony of Lights,” a free sound and light show that animates the Hong Kong Island skyline nightly at 8 p.m. The same view (and show) can also be enjoyed in privacy from the suites (some with their own terrace Jacuzzis) in the InterContinental Hong Kong.