Mention Peru to most travelers and the conversation quickly turns to Machu Picchu. Certainly, the main goal of many visitors is to explore the hallowed ruins of that enchanting, lofty aerie, but the country has much more to offer, especially for surfers willing to venture off the beaten path to where the big waves are breaking.

In most travel circles, Peru is not considered a surfing destination, but the consistent big Pacific swells that pound the country’s west coast are starting to resonate throughout the world surfing community. From Lima north to its border with Ecuador, Peru offers waves for every skill level from novice to seasoned longboarders. Also, with literally hundreds of surf spots along the 800 miles of coastline between the moderate curls of Lima to some of the world’s largest point breaks along the north coast around Máncora, it’s easy to find uncrowded waves.

Most surfers arrive in Peru’s sprawling colonial capital, Lima, which dates back to the year 200 and boasts one of the finest collections of Baroque cathedrals and gracious Spanish manors in South America. In fact, the city’s historic center around Plaza de Armas so impressed UNESCO, they declared it a World Heritage site in 1991.

However, its architecture is not the city’s only attraction. Lima also boasts several popular surfing beaches including Waikiki — named in honor of the father of Peruvian surfing, Carlos Dogny. In 1942, the Peruvian sugarcane heir returned from Hawaii with a surfboard under his arm and opened Club Waikiki. In 1956, he helped organize the country’s first national surfing championship.

Then in 1965, Peru hosted the World Surfing Championships, and Club Waikiki arranged social events for the visiting surfers from Hawaii, California, Ecuador, France, South Africa and Australia. When an unknown Peruvian, Felipe Pomar, won the event, it elevated surfing to the top of Peruvian sporting activities.

Today, surfing is not only one of Peru’s most popular outdoor sports, but also its popularity is growing worldwide. Both Waikiki and Makaha beaches in Lima’s Miraflores district offer ideal waves for novice and intermediate surfers. Several popular surf schools including Pukana Surf and Olas Peru dot the beaches and offer rental boards, wet suits and private 90-minute lessons (for around $30) to locals and visitors alike.

More experienced surfers usually head an hour’s drive south to ride the gnarly 12-foot breaks at Punta Hermosa — the birthplace of the 2004 female world surfing champion, Sofia Mulánovich. This funky little surfer boogie boasts surf shops, cozy seafood restaurants and a variety of waves from mushy right breaks to tricky sharp left breaks and the mighty bomboras, or storm waves, that rise out of the Pacific during Peru’s winter months.

Peruvian grilled salmon © Michael DeFreitas

But even the most avid surfer must come ashore to fuel up, and there’s no better way to end a long day of surfing along Waikiki than to kick back at award-winning La Rosa Nautica Restaurante at the end of the pier that juts out from the bluff below the Miraflores Park Hotel. Not only are their daily specials unforgettable — such as De Bandera, sautéed sea bass with crayfish, grilled mushrooms in olive oil and garlic — but you get to watch diehard surfers glide past within 50 feet of your table.

While in Lima don’t miss the National Museum of Archaeology with its 100,000 artifacts spanning the entire history of human occupation in Peru. The fascinating artifacts include some exquisite ceramic pottery pieces that feature pre-Inca Mochica men riding waves on logs and tortola reed boats called caballitos de totora.

As good as the surfing is around Lima, it gets even better the farther north you venture along Peru’s coast. Two sections of shoreline, Trujillo to Chiclayo and Piura to Máncora, boast outstanding surfing, including the longest and largest left-hand break waves in the world. As an added bonus, these regions offer a host of other distractions including UNESCO World Heritage sites and archaeological museums.

Ruins of Chan Chan Pre-Colombian archaeological site near Trujillo © Michael DeFreitas

Trujillo is not widely associated with surfing. Rather, it’s considered the cultural capital of Peru, recognized more for its major Pre-Columbian archaeological sites such as Chan Chan, a Pre-Incan site that dates back to 850 (designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1986); and the El Brujo Archaeological Complex (circa 600) with its small but fascinating Lady of Cao Museum. Trujillo is also known as the birthplace of la marinera (Peru’s traditional dance) and the Peruvian paso, a style of dressage.

But a few miles north of the city, the small coastal fishing villages of Huanchaco and Chicama are popular surfing hot spots for international surfers. This region has a long history of surfing, and many in Peru’s surfing world claim Huanchaco’s original Mochica fishermen, who stood on their caballitos de totora (“little reed horses”) and rode waves to shore, were the world’s first surfers. Although many dispute this claim, Huanchaco fishermen still ride the waves, and the reed boats lining the town’s sea wall are testament to a long history of wave riding.

Huanchaco’s typical set of five to seven left-breaking and two right-breaking waves appeals to a variety of skill levels, creating appealing conditions for both novice and intermediate students. The town’s wave structure and surf culture are also an ideal prologue for day-trip surfing safaris to the more advanced surf farther north. When the two local beaches get crowded, most seasoned surfers head to Puerto Chicama (about 40 miles north of Trujillo) with its consistent eight- to 15-foot waves and the longest left-hand break in the world (about two miles long), between the point and the local pier.

Chicama’s remoteness and long thigh-burning rides keep the surfing population small and well spread out. And although Peru’s quality waves break in both directions, Chicama’s long, pinwheeling, left-hand point breaks are heaven for the goofy-footers (those who ride with their left foot at the tail of the board).

Huanchaco’s malecón (boardwalk) tracks the sensuous arc of the gently curving beach. The town pier divides the beach into north and south sections. Legions of wet suit-clad surfers stomp barefoot along the malecón heading to and from the waves. Advanced surfers favor the more challenging southern waves, while the new students, grappling with their boards and awkwardly dangling leashes, stick to the sheltered waters of Playa La Curva just north of the pier. Then there are the local bare-chested kids, barely taller than the small boards tucked under their arms, deafly darting through traffic on their way to the waves of La Curva.

Lining the malecón are countless seafood restaurants such as Big Ben, with its three terraces and delicious ceviche, and the ever-present parrilleras, or barbecue vendors ready to grill just about anything you want from filet mignon to the day’s catch. Then there are the ubiquitous surf shops with their carefree vibe and various levels of attention, expertise, equipment and professionalism. Most offer $25 lessons and $15-a-day board/equipment rentals, but Muchik and Indigan surf schools are your best bet for professional service. Lessons typically include board, wet suit, instructor and full-day rental, so you can continue surfing after your lesson.

The cold Humboldt Current chills and buffets most of Peru’s coast with large south swells, but north of Huanchaco, between Piura and the Ecuadorian border, the coastline juts out into the Pacific. It’s here that the north-flowing Humboldt slams into the warm, south-flowing Equatorial Countercurrent. At this marine convergence zone, the warmer water rides overtop the colder currents, producing some of the Pacific’s best surfing and deep-sea sportfishing. It was here in the mid 1950s Hemingway spent a month hooking black marlin and filming portions of the movie version of his book The Old Man and the Sea.

Today, this section of coast is Peru’s surf central and a mecca for thousands of local and international surfers. Warm water and its proximity to the equator mean year-round tropical temps and lighter or no wet suits. The main town along this section of coast is Máncora, a small, funky, unpretentious fishing-village-turned-surfer-boogie with its army of tuk tuk taxis, ubiquitous surf shops hawking everything from lessons to ’60s-style tie-dyed T-shirts, and its popular surf-up beach bars — the ideal year-round surfer hangout.

Surfing here can get tricky on days when the waves are breaking outside the fishing boats anchored in the bay, but dodging boats is hardly an inconvenience when you have some of the longest left-hand point breaks in the world. The town’s consistent eight- to 12-foot waves draw a lot of attention, so when they get crowded you can head a few miles down the coast to Los Organos Beach with its offshore oil platforms, Cabo Blanco with its picturesque lighthouse and perfect tubular pipeline-style left breaks, or seven-mile-long Vichayito Beach with its sand dunes. Most expert surfers gravitate to the long, technical tubular 12-footers at Panic Point and El Hueco.

Máncora offers a variety of small hotels, but they tend to fill up quickly and can get noisy in the evening. A better option is one of the nearby beach resorts in Vichayito, a short 20-minute tuk tuk ride from town. The Hemingway-inspired Vichayito Bungalows & Carpas with its small thatched bungalows and safari tents only steps from the beach is a popular choice.

Main street in Máncora © Michael DeFreitas

Besides surfing, Máncora is also famous for its fresh seafood. The dozens of cozy, inexpensive bars and restaurants (such as Chef Juan Seminario’s La Sirena d’Juan) that line the malecón are ideal venues for locals and visitors to enjoy delicious seafood while swapping surfing and fishing stories.

The best thing about Peru’s surf is it’s always running. With year-round waves, plenty of rental equipment and lesson options, and an efficient local transportation network, surfing in Peru is a snap. However, due to the sheer volume of surfing options, it’s best that first-time travelers hook up with a local surfing tour company such as Surfaris Peru. They’ll get you to the waves that match your skill level and ensure you have the proper equipment and training. If non-stop waves, friendly surfers and a little adventure are your idea of a good surf trip, perhaps it’s time to hit the beaches of Peru.

Peru Info to Go

Major airlines fly daily from major U.S. gateways into Jorge Chávez Lima-Callao International Airport (LIM). LAN offers daily flights to most coastal cities including Tumbes (TBP) and Piura (PIU) airports, Peru’s northern surfing gateways. Surfaris Peru offers a variety of five- to 10-day surfing tours along the Peruvian coast from Lima to Máncora.

Where to Stay in Peru

Hotel Libertador Trujillo This 79-room downtown Trujillo oasis is just minutes from the waves of Huanchaco Beach and the ruins of Chan Chan. Its bar is famous for traditional pisco sour cocktails. Jr. Independencia 485, Plaza de Armas, Trujillo $$

Miraflores Park Hotel Perched on the cliffs above Waikiki Beach in Lima’s most fashionable district, this 5-star boasts 82 rooms, a rooftop pool and the Observatory Restaurant with spectacular views of surfers. Av. Malecón de la Reserva, 1035 Miraflores, Lima $$$

Vichayito Bungalows & Carpas This Vichayito Beach resort has 26 luxury Bedouin tent suites and nine wooden bungalows on the dunes south of Máncora, with great surfing only a few steps from your room. Antigua Panamericana N., Km. 1211, Máncora $$$

Restaurants in Peru

Astrid&Gastón Join Peru’s most celebrated chef, Gastón Acurio, and his wife, Astrid Gutsche, for a delicious fusion of traditional Peruvian and haute cuisine like noble robado fish in miso sauce with crunchy oysters. Calle Cantaurias 175, Miraflores, Lima $$$

Big Ben Restaurant Watch the surfers ride Huanchaco’s big waves at sunset from any of three open-air terraces while savoring the famous tuna and shrimp ceviche or cangrejo reventado (baked crab stuffed with egg). Av. Larco 1184, Huanchaco $$

La Sirena d’Juan Le Cordon Bleu-trained chef Juan Seminario styles Asian/Mediterranean cuisine into some of the best seafood dishes in northern Peru. His signature dish is fresh tuna tartar with ginger and passion fruit salsa. Av. Piura 316, Máncora $$

Read more about the history of surfing in Peru.