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Centuries in Sofia

by Leah Larkin

Happen upon history during a stroll through the capital city of Bulgaria.

Mighty Vitosha Mountain looms over Sofia, as does its history as part of the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires and the Soviet Eastern Bloc. Today an alluring mix of modernity and antiquity characterizes this second-oldest city in Europe, where you can still see an occasional donkey cart wending its way through downtown traffic.

As I stroll through the sprawling city park on a sunny but cold winter afternoon, an accordionist and a saxophonist play pleasant tunes under the barren trees. An intense open-air chess game draws a crowd.

Pedestrians saunter right down the middle of Vitosha Boulevard, the city’s main thoroughfare, which is closed to vehicle traffic.

It’s a bustling place lined with classy designer boutiques, CD shops, porcelain stores and clothing venues. The three-story Central Sofia Market Hall, restored in 2000, is a crowded hotspot — browse the many bakeries, butcher shops and vegetable stands, then find a seat in one of the busy eateries in the middle of the hall.

Bulgaria overthrew communism in 1989 and joined the European Union in 2007. “Sofia is rapidly changing, and for the positive,” said Borislav Kostourkov, a resident and former journalist. “New modern buildings emerge almost every week. At the same time, care is taken to renovate some nice old buildings and parks.” The city has two new malls, which Kostourkov said are bigger and better than the ones in Berlin.

Sofia is easy to explore on foot since almost all the must-see attractions are in the city center. Start at the golden statue of St. Sofia, the city’s patron saint, erected atop a tall pedestal nine years ago. The citizens love the statue, but the Church contends that it is not a religious rendition of a saint. Indeed, the golden saint — wearing a form-fitting gown with a plunging neckline — looks more like a Greek goddess.

Head over to the Sheraton Sofia Hotel, where the courtyard was built around the oldest and best-preserved building in Sofia, the fourth-century St. George Rotunda. This ancient church is surrounded by the remains of the original Roman town of Serdica. Three layers of frescoes were discovered within the structure, the oldest dating to the 10th century.

Walk through Alexander Battenberg Square, named for the first prince of modern Bulgaria, where the National Art Gallery is now housed in the former royal palace. Continue down Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard to the Russian Church of St. Nicholas — a delightful jewel, its yellow-tiled exterior, gilded domes and an emerald-green spire sparkling in the sun.

It is the golden dome of St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, however, that dominates Sofia’s skyline and is the symbol of the city. One of the world’s largest Eastern Orthodox cathedrals, it was built between 1904 and 1912 in honor of the 200,000 Russian soldiers who perished in the 1877–78 Russo-Turkish War, ultimately liberating Bulgaria after 500 years of Turkish rule.

The cathedral’s massive interior, which can accommodate up to 5,000 people, is overwhelming, with some 300 frescoes of saints, mosaics, gigantic chandeliers, Italian marble, Egyptian alabaster, Brazilian onyx and gold. Bulgaria’s best collection of icons is on display in the crypt.

Stop by the lively and colorful street market adjacent to the church — another blend of old and new — where you can bargain for everything from antiques, Russian fur hats and lacquered boxes to icons and hand-sewn embroidery.

LODGING

ARENA DI SERDICA
This elegant boutique hotel incorporates the ruins of an amphitheater dating from the third century and is just a few steps from major attractions. Inviting guestrooms feature a designer décor, free high-speed Internet access and LCD TVs. Ancient ruins surround the relaxation area of the Wellness Club with its sauna, steam room and solarium. The rooftop panoramic-view restaurant is the perfect place for a romantic meal. Personal service is a hallmark of this stylish 64-room hotel.$$$$
ARENA DI SERDICA
2–4 Budapeshta St.
tel 359 2 810 7788
www.arenadiserdica.com

CRYSTAL PALACE BOUTIQUE HOTEL
The Crystal Palace has a pleasant, quiet location opposite the leafy Doctor’s Garden, within easy walking distance of the city center. Windows of the 64 spacious, sunny guestrooms offer stunning views of Vitosha Mountain. The restaurant features gourmet cuisine, while the stylish lobby bar is a favorite meeting point for afternoon coffee and tea as well as cocktails.