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Gotta Love It
Romance and commerce go hand in hand in Kaohsiung, Taiwans second largest city.
Romance flows through the heart of Kaohsiung, Taiwans second largest city. You sense it when you take an evening stroll along the river and see couples walking hand in hand. Here, it is hard to believe that you are in the middle of a booming metropolis of 1.5 million people that owes its success to heavy industry, petrochemicals and container shipping. Dynamic industrialism seems far removed from this languid waterway, which is romantic by nature and by name: Love River.The history of Love River is the history of Kaohsiung. The river has humble, manmade origins: it was created by Dutch settlers in the 17th century to drain nearby marshland. Through subsequent Japanese and, ultimately, Chinese administrations, the river served both as a water source for industry and as an open sewer. Similarly, Kaohsiung was used and abused, and by the mid-20th century it was choking under the pollution pumped out by a forest of factory smokestacks.
Both river and city have been transformed in recent years. Following a sustained cleanup and the long-overdue installation of a modern sewerage system beneath the city Love Rivers name now seems less ironic, and it has become a living symbol of civic pride. Meanwhile, the city has benefited from zoning laws that have pushed the factories to the outskirts, and also from an economic shift away from heavy industry and toward new technologies and the service industries.
Through all the changes, one thing has remained constant: Kaohsiungs auspicious geography. The city is built beside the finest natural harbor in Taiwan, sheltered by Cijin Island, which forms a breakwater against the storms of the Taiwan Strait. Each year, more than 18,000 ships use the container port (www.khb.gov.tw/english), making it the fifth busiest in the world. A $711 million investment program will expand the port still further.
The ferry service that departs every five to 10 minutes from the city to Cijin is the ideal way to get your bearings and to experience the busy port in action. Looking back at the city, you cant fail to be impressed by the dominant landmark the Tuntex 85 Sky Tower which consists of two 35-floor towers seemingly clasping between them another tower, which rises to 1,140 feet. Only one skyscraper in the United States, the Sears Tower, is taller.
On completion in 1997, the Tuntex 85 Sky Tower was the tallest building in Taiwan. But the title was soon lost to the Taipei 101 Tower, thus symbolizing in giant architecture the fierce rivalry that has always existed between Taiwanfs two principal cities. That rivalry will be set aside in October, when a new $13 billion, 213-mile-long high-speed rail link is scheduled to begin operations. The new service, which will carry up to 300,000 people each day, will cut the journey time from 41.2 hours to 90 minutes, and will further fuel Kaohsiungfs remarkable economic growth . as will the construction of the Kaohsiung metro, projected to be completed in 2007.
In daylight, viewed from the Cijin ferry, the successes and continuing ambitions of this energetic city are plain to see. Yet at night, beside the Love River, it is heartening to discover that Kaohsiung has not lost its romantic streak.
LODGING
As you would expect for such a go-ahead Asian city, Kaohsiung is well served by plush and efficient business hotels. Most of the top properties are located in the Chienchin district on the east bank of Love River, a district that is also the prime shopping area.
THE SPLENDOR KAOHSIUNG
Occupying floors 37 to 79 of the Tuntex 85 Sky Tower, the 592-room Splendor (formerly Grand Formosa) ranks as the highest hotel in Taiwan. Height means fabulous views, especially on the harbor side. All the rooms feature the latest technology, including free broadband Internet access. The hotel boasts an exclusive ladies floor, as well as nonsmoking floors. Most of the bars and restaurants make us
e of the stunning vistas, especially the 75th Lounge the perfect place for an afternoon cocktail. $$$THE SPLENDOR KAOHSIUNG
1 Tzu-Chiang 3rd Road
tel 886 7 566 8000, fax 886 7 566 8080
www.thesplendor.com
GRAND HI-LAI HOTEL
The 550-room Grand Hi-Lai is the Splendors main competitor for the crown of best hotel in town. Located in an imposing neoclassical skyscraper within the commercial district, the hotel is sumptuously furnished with 1,200 works of art from China and Europe. The fully equipped rooms on the executive floors are tailored to the demands of international business travelers. Other facilities include a pool, a health club, a business center and 17 restaurants. $$$
