Six meaty racks of goat stretch Argentinean-style over a smoking pit at the landmark El Rey del Cabrito restaurant, where culinary staging is visually distracting. Restaurants proclaim “Monterrey-style” goat while slow-burning the delicacy on a spit over charcoal, turning and basting frequently. To some this may look appetizing, but to me, I only hope it tastes like chicken.

Monterrey reigns as the capital of Mexico’s rugged northeastern state of Nuevo León, and the city heartily embraces its reputation as the world headquarters of cabrito (goat). Lauded as the “King of Cabrito,” the massive El Rey restaurant has a mustard-yellow façade with red neon trim. More distracting is dining among taxidermy in a hunting lodge setting within the Barrio Antiguo, the city’s Old Quarter.

When a sizzling tray of goat on a bed of onions with a large salad and tortillas arrive, it is game on at the kitschy restaurant, apparently the place to experience your first taste. Fortunately, tradition also dictates a pairing with salsa and beer. The latter two help mask the gamey, slightly greasy, lamb-like taste of cabrito, not the chicken flavor I’d hoped for. Also fortunately, another regional favorite is beef, so I opt for a steak platter and another beer.

Some say Monterrey reminds them of the American Southwest with the fast-food outlets, mega-malls and “lawn” residential communities. True, these ambitious efforts toward urban renewal resulted in a remodeled downtown, but my quest was to find the soul of the city through its architecture, museums, culture, people and food.

Since the 1980s, Monterrey has worked on showcasing its historic treasures, and the imprint of the Spanish colonial era can still be found in Barrio Antiguo, with its numerous restored colonial-era homes dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries. Decades ago, many of these old homes were restored and converted into shops and restaurants.

I’d read about this charming neighborhood with its cobblestone streets, measuring three blocks by five, but my excitement turned to disappointment; this once-lively area had become a ghost town as a result of the violence of the drug cartel. I did manage a quick late-morning glance at the architecture, but the roaming police commandos in pickup trucks were disconcerting.

At first glance, like so many travelers, I discounted Monterrey as a destination worthy of kicking back. Founded in 1596 as a Spanish outpost, the city had its share of disasters, including a flood wiping out the city in 1612. Yet today it stands as Mexico’s third-largest city, serving as the country’s industrial powerhouse to the north and the pillar of the Mexican economy. Its strategic location near the U.S. border (145 miles south of Texas) does offer economic advantages for corporate headquarters and assembly plants, of which there are many.

Today “The Sultan of the North” retains its colonial-era attractions, adding two airports, a cultural scene, fine hotels, stately museums, bold modern architecture and a spiffed-up city center. In the shadow of the Sierra Madre mountains with a distinctive saddle-shaped peak, Cerro de la Silla, this striking backdrop is home to more than 3 million people living in its six municipalities. Monterrey residents are among the most educated in the country and enjoy Mexico’s highest living standards; there’s a high concentration of English speakers and the most universities and colleges per capita in the country.

Though the oldest part of the city began along the Rio de Santa Catarina, the best place to start exploring is in the heart of Monterrey. The 100-acre Macroplaza (Gran Plaza) is one of the world’s largest public squares — five times larger than the Zócalo in Mexico City. Built in the 1980s, the multilevel complex is actually several squares, one block wide and six blocks long, forming a pedestrian plaza lined with trees, gardens and fountains.

Nearly every building is occupied, from the city hall at one end to the post office at the other. At the north end is the Palacio de Gobierno, or Government Palace. Designated a national monument, this turn-of-the-century Neoclassical structure with pink quarry construction and fresco-lined patios dates back to 1908. Behind its columns and pink façade, discover a museum with permanent exhibits exploring the history of the city, including a collection of Huastec Indian artifacts.

Time passes quickly along the plaza as you pass impressive structures, museums, restaurants and attractions, resulting in an impromptu, full-day city tour. An old-fashioned trolley operates every 30 minutes (Tuesday through Sunday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m.), with stops at the most important sights and attractions in Macroplaza and the shopping district of Plaza Morelos.

Or simply let your feet pick your stops as you pass dozens of notable attractions: the Bosque Hundida (a sunken garden), the Central Library and La Capilla de los Dulces Nombres (Chapel of the Sweet Names). Stop at the historic city center, the Plaza Zaragoza (since 1616), featuring the modern City Hall, home to the Metropolitan Museum of Monterrey and the Homage to the Sun sculpture.

You’ll quickly notice the numerous monuments and sculptures. The Explanada de los Héroes features predominantly with its 2,000-square-foot memorial to national heroes, including Hidalgo, Morelos and Escobedo. Dozens of sculptures scattered along the plaza celebrate the works of distinguished artists, such as The Horse by Colombian sculptor Fernando Botero.

My approach to the three-level, 99-foot Neptune Fountain was rewarded by a gaggle of kids splashing in its cooling waters. Their laughter while they played tag in their water kingdom among the bronze sculptures of Neptune and others eased my disappointment from the previous day’s setback in the Old Quarter.

The plaza’s long stretch is filled with diversions in addition to its historical bookends. The ultra-modern City Theater with seating for 1,500 hosts cultural performances including plays, concerts and the annual Ballet of Monterrey.

Feel like shopping? You’re in the right place. Glassware, crystal chandeliers, carved handpainted boxes — oh, my! I tried to keep it to window shopping, but the cowboy boots called my name. I stepped inside to the rich smell of freshly oiled leather, and the shopkeeper had my number from the beginning. He must’ve seen me eyeing the dark brown boots with the shaft accented by vibrant red and blue flowers. I admired the smoothness of the leather, but even after bartering, I left empty-handed — not enough room in the carry-on.

For those who appreciate art and history, take your adventure inside with a tour of the Museum of Contemporary Art (MARCO), the city’s cultural center. The symbol of the museum, a huge bronze sculpture called The Dove, designed by Mexican artist Juan Soriano, guards the front of the building. Located on the south end of the Gran Plaza, this $11 million facility is the cultural pride and joy of the city as the largest permanent exhibit of contemporary Mexican and Latin American art on the continent. Its architectural design is inspired by a traditional Mexican home with a central courtyard, with half of its 30,000 square feet used for rotating art exhibits.

At the south end, the Gran Plaza’s sentry is the Baroque Monterrey Cathedral on Plaza Zaragoza, hovering over the plaza like a protective mother. Construction began on this cathedral in 1603, long before the plaza existed, but it took 150 years to complete. Inside are murals and sculptures, some of the country’s most treasured pieces, including an image of the Purisima Virgen, and an 1851 three-tiered bell tower.

Behind the cathedral and near the MARCO is the Lighthouse of Commerce. When the sun sets, a blue-green laser beams across the city’s skyline and distant mountains from this 250-foot-tall, orange stucco tower. Concerts are often held beneath the lighthouse.

Fundidora Park © Jimstyler | Dreamstime.com

My energetic agenda included visiting the nearby Fundidora Park, a 304-acre public urban park located on the former Iron and Steel Foundry Co. grounds. This “Steel Mill Park” mixes plazas, pathways, gardens and lakes with the industrial history of the city. I had planned to rent a bike for a spin on the miles of public trails, or perhaps visit the Steel Oven Trex-Museum, but I simply ran out of time.

My last day’s schedule was also an ambitious undertaking, as I vowed to squeeze everything adventurous Monterrey had to offer into my short visit. But so many options.

Should I take a road trip 30 miles south of the city to the García Caves, a series of underground caverns formed more than 50 million years ago? Ascend 2,275 feet by cable car and then overcome my claustrophobia with a 1.3-mile journey to underground trails with 37 chambers and spectacular stalactites and stalagmites?

Since time was limited, I wanted to discover one of the “Magical Towns of Mexico,” a designation created by the Mexican Tourism Board for towns with natural beauty, cultural riches and historical relevance. Just 30 minutes south of Monterrey on Highway 85 is Santiago, a traditional village between the Sierra Madre Oriental and Cerro de la Silla. Although some might make this a weekend, I had to make the best of a full-day adventure.

Horse Tail Waterfall, Cumbres de Monterrey National Park © Jerl71 | Dreamstime.com

Located 10 minutes before Santiago, my first stop was Horse Tail Waterfall, the highlight of Cumbres de Monterrey National Park, one of Mexico’s largest parks. Easily accessible by trail (30 pesos entrance fee), it’s a short walk on brick-paved paths, sadly overflowing with litter. I heard the falls before seeing the powerful 82-foot rush of water in the shape of a horse tail, splashing over large, rounded boulders into small ponds, but the moment was difficult to enjoy as the surrounding flora was offset by a touristy setting with concession stands and vendors. You can trek farther to enjoy camping, hiking, horseback rides, nature walks and rappelling, but I had to move on to Santiago.

Passing old mansions through narrow cobbled streets led me to the fountains and gazebo of Plaza Ocampo, Santiago’s main plaza. Surrounding the square in traditional Mexican fashion were locals selling their wares and nearby art galleries, furniture stores, candy shops, hotels and restaurants. It truly was a magical city as I watched una abuela share boitas de leche (round milk candies) with her grandchildren. From a vendor in the square, I ordered traditional tasty meat empanadas.

Then I took a whirlwind tour of the historic sites, admiring the architecture: the Baroque-style, two-towered St. James Parish Church, circa 1910. On an overlook behind the church is a view of De la Baca dam, where I spotted boats and jet skis. Back at the square, I stopped at the renovated Palacio Municipal (also the Santiago History Museum) and the Cultural Center, on the opposite side of the plaza, with its international exhibits.

Near the square is Los Cavacoz, a shopping area known for its local furniture craftsmen, stone pots and fountains, handpainted clay figures and leather goods, as well as its restaurants. There was so much to see, I wished I’d allotted more than just a few hours.

The drive back was uneventful, but I saved the best for last. My reward would be a cold beer and a visit to Cervecería Cuauhtemoc, the largest brewery in Mexico. Beer lovers are well aware of its brands — Tecate, Carta Blanca and Bohemia. This is the largest and oldest brewery in Mexico, producing a million bottles of beer each day. It’s also home to Mexico’s Baseball Hall of Fame, and the perfect ending to a magical day.

When I first landed in Monterrey, I was concerned the city’s soul had been swallowed by its role as the country’s hub of business — or worse, by the drug cartel. What I discovered were dozens of interesting and historic sites, culinary adventures and beautiful natural wonders — more than enough to keep me entertained. It is definitely a destination for travelers looking to kick back.

Monterrey Info to Go

International travelers arrive at the General Mariano Escobedo International Airport (MTY), located in Apodaca, about 20 minutes northeast of downtown Monterrey. Direct connections service 20 Mexican destinations, including Mexico City and Cancún, and nine major U.S. airports. Purchase prepaid taxi coupons at the arrivals counter, approximately $25.

Where to Stay in Monterrey

Habita Monterrey This exclusive boutique hotel offers 28 guestrooms and 11 suites with black and white interiors. Step onto the rooftop bar, featuring two pools, for 360-degree city and mountain views. Av. José Vasconcelos 150 Oriente, San Pedro Garza García $$$

InterContinental Presidente Monterrey Breathtaking city views and an exclusive address make this luxury property ideal to explore the nearby Mexican History Museum and MARCO. Av. José Vasconcelos 300 Oriente, Lomas del Valle $$–$$$

Quinta Real Monterrey The colonial-style Mexican luxury hotel feels like a private estate. Its ivy-clad building is a landmark in downtown Monterrey. Diego Rivera 500, Fraccionamiento Valle Oriente, San Pedro Garza García $$$

Restaurants in Monterrey

El Rey del Cabrito This landmark restaurant serves cabrito (kid goat), slowly cooked over mesquite coals. Add cabecita (goat head) or fritada (fried blood), or stay with grilled beef. Av. Constitución 817, Barrio Antiguo $$$

Fonda San Francisco Your guide to the creative, traditionally Mexican-inspired menu (gorditos de salmón, molito de hongos) at this inviting, casual bistro is the English-speaking chef, Adrian Herrera. Los Aldama 123, San Pedro Garza García $$–$$$

El Mirador Restaurant Expect remarkable service and traditional northern Mexican food, including the best tortillas and exceptional cuts of meat. After-dinner drinks at El Granero Bar afford a Sierra Madre panoramic view. Hotel Chipinque, Meseta de Chipinque 1000, San Pedro Garza García $$$$