On foot and on horseback, people have been crisscrossing Galicia, in northwest Spain, for thousands of years. When the Romans reached Cape Finisterre, the westernmost point, they stopped. Their empire could stretch no further. This, they declared, was the end of the world: finis terrae.
On a misty winter’s day, you can believe it. The gray Atlantic Ocean shatters against the rocky headland. Sea and sky fuse in the gloom. This is certainly not what you think of when you think of Spain.
Indeed, most of Galicia subverts our preconceptions. It is part of Spain, yet scenically, culturally and linguistically, it is distinctly different. The rolling green countryside and craggy coastline is strongly reminiscent of Ireland, an impression reinforced by the proud Celtic heritage.
Recent DNA research has revealed a close genetic relationship between Galicians and the Irish. Local festivities are often accompanied by bagpipes, which have been played here for centuries. As for the language, around 85 percent of the population speak Gallego, which is derived from Spanish and Portuguese.
Life in this remote corner of Spain has traditionally been tough, and consequently, as with Ireland, many inhabitants emigrated to the New World in search of fresh opportunities, especially to Cuba (both of Fidel Castro’s parents were from Galicia), Uruguay and Argentina. There are said to be more Galicians in Buenos Aires than in Galicia itself.
Yet wherever Galicians end up, their land exerts a mystical pull. According to the local legend, when God rested on the seventh day, his hand pressed down on Galicia and the imprint of his fingers created the four fjord-like inlets that fracture the coast between Finisterre and the region’s largest city, Vigo. It was Galicia’s first blessing.
The second came in 813, when the purported tomb of St. James was discovered a short distance inland. A city was founded on the spot, Santiago de Compostela. Derived from Latin, the name means “St. James of the Starry Field” — according to the story, a farmer was led to the hidden tomb by the light of stars.
From the Middle Ages onward, up to 500,000 pilgrims from all corners of Europe — the British Isles in the West, Scandinavia in the North, and distant Constantinople in the East — descended on Santiago de Compostela each year. It was soon recognized as the third most holy site in Christendom, after Jerusalem and Rome.
The pilgrims still come, around 70,000 annually, walking or riding the various converging routes that make up the Camino de Santiago. Pilgrims carry a credencial — a kind of passport — to be stamped along the way. A completed credencial earns a certificate known as a compostela and a pardon for sins. Anyone who walks at least the last 62 miles, or cycles or rides at least the last 124 miles, is eligible for a compostela.
For many, the prime motivation is religious. But in recent years the Catholic pilgrims have been joined by an increasing number of secular trekkers for whom the journey itself is the big attraction. The weaving route has been carved into the landscape by centuries of footsteps, passing through some of the most beautiful scenery in southern Europe.
The hardiest modern pilgrims trek overland to Santiago de Compostela from all over Europe, threading their way down through France to the Pyrenees. The routes converge at Roncesvalles, the ideal starting point for adventurers intent on completing the 485-mile Spanish section of the route — an epic undertaking which requires meticulous planning, and takes four to six weeks on foot.
It is here that the four principal routes through France converge, originating in Paris, Vézelay, Le Puy and Arles — routes that follow the trails taken, historically, by pilgrims from Britain, the Netherlands, Germany and Italy. In France, only traces of the pilgrimage infrastructure remain, but from Roncesvalles onward there is a network of pilgri m hostels providing inexpensive ($3–30 per night) overnight accommodation for anyone with a credencial. Many of these hostels have been receiving pilgrims for more than a thousand years.
The hostel at Roncesvalles is one of the largest, with bunk beds for 120 people in its single dormitory. In summer, capacity is regularly exceeded, and a campsite of tents springs up around the ancient building to accommodate the overflow.
From Roncesvalles, the trek to Santiago generally takes four to five weeks, considerably less on mountain bike or horseback. Bikes and horses are available to rent along the way, or you can pre-book a guided group tour.
The outer reaches of the Camino are the most enjoyable. There is a strong sense of camaraderie among the pilgrims — whatever their motivation for the journey — and friendships are made easily. There is a tangible sense of connection to the past, of treading in the footsteps of previous generations.
During the last 62 miles, the atmosphere changes. Hundreds of fresh pilgrims join the path for the final stretch, and there is no longer quite the same bond of shared experience. But the countryside is still pretty, and there is growing anticipation with each footfall (or each revolution of the bike wheel, each horse’s hoof step), as the final goal approaches. Few sights compare to the first glimpse of the spires of Santiago de Compostela after days on the Camino.
The aim for most pilgrims is to arrive in the city in time for the Festival of St. James on July 25. The years when that date falls on a Sunday are designated “Holy Years” and are especially auspicious; the next two are 2010 and 2021.
Even for non-pilgrims, Santiago de Compostela is a compelling destination. Many of the buildings, including the magnificent cathedral, are made from pink granite. When it rains here — and it does quite often — the stone gleams, giving the whole place an ethereal aspect.
The weather plays tricks with the surrounding landscape, too. At dawn, when the patchwork fields are coated with dew and wisps of Atlantic fog hang among the trees, and the watery sun bathes everything in golden light, it doesn’t feel like the end of the world at all. More like the beginning.
INFO TO GO
Massachusetts-based specialist Easy Rider Tours (www.easyridertours.com) offers a 12-day guided mountain bike tour from Burgos to Santiago from $4,550, excluding flights. Euroadventures (www.euroadventures.net) offers seven-day walking or horseback tours on the final section of the Camino from O Cebreiro to Santiago de Compostela, from $2,300, excluding flights.
Read This Next
Diabetes
2004 / April 2004
Sep 1, 2010All Reads on This Topic
Read Them All
Introducing
FX Excursions
FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.
#globility
Insta FeedBhutan
Apr 17, 2024Mindfulness City in Kingdom of Bhutan Unveiled as Future Economic Hub
In front of an audience of 30,000 Kingdom of Bhutan residents and officials, His Majesty King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck presented his vision for a new economic hub in Bhutan. Located between India to the south and China to the north, Bhutan is one of the most beautiful destinations in the world. Bhutan came late to global tourism. It opened its borders to international visitors in 1974 and, while tourism definitely increased, residents are enduring “light” rush-hour traffic in Thimphu, its capital city, as the only Asian capital without traffic lights.
Sponsored Content
Exclusive Savings: Cruise Along the Danube River with Global Traveler
Exclusive Sailing with Global Traveler
eFlyer Reviews
Apr 17, 2024Amansara Review
It was more than a car journey; it was a transition between worlds. At our first hotel in Siem Reap, huge coaches constantly pulled up outside the lobby to deposit or receive international tour groups; we departed in very different style, in a 1965 black Mercedes limousine once owned by King Sihanouk. The mundanities of mass tourism were left behind. We progressed through the chaotic Cambodian streets in regal comfort and soon arrived at a solid gate.
Daily
Apr 17, 2024Regent Santa Monica Beach to Debut This Summer
Regent Santa Monica Beach is slated to debut this summer, steps away from the iconic Santa Monica Pier.
Sponsored Content
L’Ermitage Beverly Hills: A Discreet Hideaway Awaits
Nestled between the palm-lined boulevards of residential Beverly Hills, L'Ermitage evokes a sense of refined elegance and unparalleled service. This Forbes Five-Star and AAA Five Diamond haven continues to captivate discerning travelers and Angelenos with its unwavering dedication to personalized hospitality.
eFlyer News
Apr 17, 2024Aurora Expeditions Welcomes Third Small Ship, “Douglas Mawson,” to Fleet
Earlier this month, Aurora Expeditions announced plans to soon welcome its third small ship, Douglas Mawson, to its fleet. Slated to set sail in 2025, the revolutionary small ship will take an average of 154 passengers to the world’s wildest places. The ship, named after the legendary Australian geologist and explorer, embodies Mawson’s spirit.
Birder’s Delight at Brewery Gulch Inn & Spa
eFlyer Deals
Apr 17, 2024Love and Let Fly at Sandals, Beaches Resorts
eFlyer Deals
Apr 17, 2024Ireland
Apr 17, 2024Is Dublin Airport in Ireland Getting a New Terminal?
A proposed third terminal at Dublin Airport was officially submitted to Fingal County Council earlier this year. The plan proposes adding a third terminal between the two current runways, increasing passenger numbers from 28.1 million passengers in 2022 to 40 million by 2030.
Sponsored Content
Reconnecting the World: GBTA Convention 2023 Spotlights the Vital Role of Business Travel and In-Person Connection
In an increasingly digital and interconnected world, the Global Business Travel Association (GBTA) Convention remains an indispensable platform for business travel industry professionals seeking to make the most of the power of face-to-face connections. Taking place August 13–15 in Dallas, the 2023 GBTA Convention provides the unique opportunity for professionals and companies to join visionaries, thought leaders and industry experts for meaningful networking, cutting-edge insights and inspiring innovation.
Daily
Apr 16, 2024All Aboard for Plant-Based Sailing with GetMyBoat
When it comes to private cruises and short-distance excursions, GetMyBoat is regarded as the world’s largest “Airbnb of Boats” and water experiences. Its Wellness on the Sea, a wholly plant-based wellness and fitness eco-tour experience, is among 130,000 listings in 184 countries worldwide that include guided whale-watching trips, kayak and canoe trips, scuba and snorkeling trips, indulgent luxury yacht journeys, and more.
ShareThis