FX Excursions

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French Fascination

by Felicity Long

Sep 1, 2016
Magazine / Editorial

For first-timers and veteran visitors alike, the allure of France is so enduring that the notion of extending a business trip for a few days of leisure exploration is practically a given. After all, this country has so perfected the art of living well — from the wine and cuisine to the sheer beauty of the art and architecture — that even the mundanities of daily life take on an air of glamour.

Even the terrorist attacks in November 2015 in Paris failed to dim the luster of the City of Lights; although, of course, visitors should exercise caution and common sense in crowded areas such as metro stations and airports.

Although Paris itself offers enough A-list attractions to keep visitors entranced for days on end, pairing the bustling capital with a more relaxing stay in nearby Bordeaux showcases the charm and diversity of the country.

If you spent your stay in Paris largely indoors at work, take the time to see the attractions that make the city so unforgettable.

One of the easiest ways to get the lay of the land is, ironically, by water. Spending an hour on a Seine cruise allows you to see Paris from a vantage point you can’t easily duplicate on land. The scenic Seine River bisects the city into its famous Left and Right banks, known as Rive Gauche and Rive Droite, each with its own distinct history and personality.

Visitors can choose from several river cruise companies, but two of the best-known are the Vedettes du Pont-Neuf, which starts from the city’s oldest bridge, Pont-Neuf, and Bateaux Mouches, which offers dining or simple sightseeing options.

The view from the Musée d’Orsay

The view from the Musée d’Orsay © Becky Morris | Dreamstime.com

River cruise guides, fluent in various languages, point out sites of interest, including the Musée d’Orsay, a gorgeous, many-windowed former train station that now houses some of the most important art in the world, not to mention one of the best vistas of the city viewed from inside the museum through a clock’s face.

The other show-stopping site along the river cruise is Notre-Dame Cathedral which, while you can walk up to it from land, appears even more dramatic when seen head-on from the river.

You can also see the Eiffel Tower from the cruise, and those with time constraints can take heart that the iconic structure is more impressive to look at from below than when experienced in an ascent amid a jostling crowd of other tourists. The tower is especially beautiful at night, when it twinkles with sparkly lights.

For a far more impressive, panoramic city view, head to the Arc de Triomphe and climb to the top — there is an elevator for those uncomfortable with the 284 steps — and watch the rekindling of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier flame at the monument base daily at 6:30 p.m.

Of course, the charms of Paris go beyond its imposing monuments. Stroll through the tiny, winding streets of the Latin Quarter — traditionally the artier, more student-oriented section of the city because of its proximity to the Sorbonne and its once-upon-a-time inexpensive apartments and art galleries.

The district is just as toney as everywhere else in Paris now, but you can still find tiny restaurants with prix-fixe meals and outdoor cafés where you can people-watch for hours without breaking the bank. Cafés along the Champs-Élysées on the Right Bank are just as welcoming, but expect to pay a premium for that location; also, you are more likely to sit next to tourists than locals.

Another favorite district, Le Marais, formerly the Jewish quarter, boasts one of the most appealing squares in Paris, the Place des Vosges. Here on sunny days Parisians abandon all restraint and sprawl on the grass to enjoy the surroundings. Le Marais is also home to one of Paris’ other great museums, the Centre Pompidou, which dazzles as much for its ultra-modern exterior as for its contemporary exhibitions.

Louvre's glass pyramid

Louvre’s glass pyramid © Pigprox | Dreamstime.com

Speaking of museums, the jewel in the crown is arguably still the Louvre, an institution so huge the only sane way to approach a visit is to target a period or even a piece you want to see. However, if your choice is the Mona Lisa, expect to struggle to get near enough to have a good look.

One of the most famous aspects of the Louvre isn’t even in the museum but rather the outdoor glass pyramid designed by architect I.M. Pei — notable in its own right but made doubly famous by the bestselling book and film The Da Vinci Code. Outside the Louvre, the Tuileries Garden offers open-air sculptures, puppet theaters and tiny boats local children — and the young at heart — sail in the ponds.

Leaving Paris is never easy, but knowing you have a destination as appealing as Bordeaux waiting for you makes the transition painless. While you don’t have to be a wine lover to enjoy the city, it helps, particularly for those looking to explore Bordeaux’s newest blockbuster attraction, La Cité du Vin, a wine and cultural center that opened amid much fanfare in June.

It makes sense for a city whose name evokes one of the most respected wine appellations in the world to honor its culture. Located on the banks of the Garonne River, the interactive museum showcases wine regions around the world via smell infusion, 3D photography, music and holograms. The museum’s other most compelling feature is its architecture, an imposing, Modernist structure said to be inspired by the shape wine makes swirling in a glass. Naturally, the facility offers wine tasting, along with gourmet dining at several eateries and bars on site.

Of course, not everything in Bordeaux is about wine. Foodies also rule in this city, designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2007.

Explore local culinary traditions at the Marché des Capucins, Bordeaux’ biggest and most famous market. Bring your appetite because your senses will be assaulted with the glorious scents of freshly baked breads and pastries, cheeses of every size and description, oysters and fresh fish set out in picturesque displays and, of course, a dazzling assortment of fresh produce. There are even a few bars and restaurants within the market, open daily, usually from early morning until just after lunch.

Tour Pey-Berland bell tower of Cathédrale Saint-André

Tour Pey-Berland bell tower of Cathédrale Saint-André © Rostislav Ageev | Dreamstime.com

Architecture buffs won’t be disappointed in Bordeaux, either, thanks to an assortment of styles with a grandeur that rivals that of the country’s capital. Start an exploration of the historic city center and its most famous buildings at the Golden Triangle within the intersections of the Cours Clemenceau, Cours de l’Intendance and the Allées de Tourny.

Explore — or better yet, consider taking in a concert — at the Neoclassical Grand-Théâtre in the Place de la Comedie, and save time to wander along the riverbank, where some of Bordeaux’ most dramatic changes have taken place in the last several decades. Once-empty warehouses have morphed into trendy restaurants, bars and boutiques, creating a lively and inviting scene for locals and visitors alike.

Be aware, Bordeaux brims with museums and historic buildings, and you won’t be able to see everything in a few days. If you only have time for a few highlights, consider seeing some of the most famous: the Musée des Beaux-Arts; the starkly beautiful Romanesque Basilique Saint-Seurin; and the Tour Pey-Berland, a 15th-century bell tower and city landmark.

France Info to Go

Two international airports — Charles de Gaulle and Orly — serve Paris, but most U.S. flights pass through CDG. The metro connects to city center, about $11 for the 35-minute ride. For taxi service, expect to pay about $55–80; only accept rides in vehicles with illuminated taxi signs. The simplest public transportation option from Orly is the Orly bus, about $9 for the half-hour ride. A taxi costs about $45–60. Taxi fares from both airports surge during rush hour.

You can fly to Bordeaux-Mérignac Airport from either Paris airport in just more than an hour. A shuttle for about $8 makes the half-hour ride from BOD to the Bordeaux Saint-Jean train station hourly, or take a taxi to city center for about $35. You can also make the journey from Paris to Bordeaux Saint-Jean station by rail in about four hours; in 2017 new TGV service will shorten the trip to around two hours. Once in town, you can get around by tram, but we recommend exploring the historic center and riverfront on foot.

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