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Volume 5, Issue 45, November 6, 2007 |
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Global warming and the consequent rising seas threaten at least 13 major cities, according to the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. But according to some experts, Bangkok may be one of the most severely threatened. Why? Because not only is it low-lying — about 6 feet above sea level — but it’s actually sinking, too.
The IPCC — which has been studying climate change since 1990 and this year shared the Nobel Peace Prize with Al Gore — projects that sea levels will rise globally by between 11 and 17 inches in the 21st century, compared with 6.7 inches in the 20th century. That does not include a much more significant rise — as much as two feet — if major Arctic ice sheets melt.
Even the worst-case scenario wouldn’t put Bangkok under water — except for the fact that parts of the city, which is built on the clay soil of a floodplain, are sinking at least 2 inches a year (some say 4 inches). At that rate, much of the city could be under water within 40 years; global warming can only hasten the process. Already, high tides in monsoon season temporarily claim some of the far-flung city.
A lot of attention has been paid lately to the plight of Khun Samut Chin, a village just 12 miles from downtown Bangkok. Official reports say that villagers have moved inland multiple times in the last two generations, as the coastline has moved inland by more than half a mile. The only building that hasn’t been moved, the Wat Khun Samut temple, is now an island surrounded by underwater rooftops. Known lately as “The Temple in the Sea,” its monks raise money to shore up its seawalls from the donations of tourists who arrive by boat.
The Associated Press recently quoted Smith Dharmasaroja, chairman of the Thai government’s Committee on National Disaster Warning Administration, as saying, “ We don't have time to move our capital in the next 15-20 years. We have to protect our heart now, and it's almost too late. … We feel that with the ground sinking and the sea water rising, Bangkok will be under sea water in the next 15 to 20 years — permanently.” He’s urging construction of a system of dikes similar to those that have successfully let Holland fend off the encroaching sea. 
Thrifty Car Rentals has established a new program in New York City: Rent by the hour. Cars must be picked up from, and returned to, either of the company’s Manhattan locations, and there is a two-hour minimum. The program is not available on Friday or Saturday, and expires Dec. 31. Base rate is $19 for two hours, for any type of car from economy to full-size.
If you’re a Web-savvy traveler, you’re still in the minority — but probably not for long. A huge survey of more than 100 airlines showed that 21 percent of passengers worldwide now use online check-in, a figure expected to increase to 35 percent in 2008. Self-service kiosks are also gaining acceptance; 37 percent of air travelers now use them. Bar-coded boarding passes — the type you can print out at home or at a kiosk — have now replaced traditional boarding passes at almost half the airlines surveyed. The study was conducted by SITA, an international association for airline IT solutions.
The Mara Safari Club bordering Kenya’s Masai Mara reserve has reopened after extensive renovations by its new management, Fairmont Hotels. Now called the Fairmont Mara Safari Club, the deluxe riverfront resort has 50 tents, equipped with four-poster beds, electricity, private bathrooms and verandas. Also on the property are the main lodge, which houses a restaurant, bar, library and business center, and a freeform swimming pool with pool bar. The Mara Safari Club is a five-hour drive or 45-minute flight from Nairobi (WIL).
In the past week, Jet Airways has been busy establishing its Brussels (BRU) hub. In addition to its daily Newark (EWR) – Brussels – Mumbai (BOM) flight, last week the airline began flying the New York (JFK) – Brussels – New Delhi (DEL) route, operating out of American Airlines’ sparkling new terminal at JFK. Jet Airways also started flying to Chennai (MAA) from Toronto (YYZ) via Brussels, in addition to the New Delhi route it began flying from Toronto in September. And it opened its new lounge at Brussels Airport for first-class and Premiere (business) class passengers. First-class passengers get a dedicated area with a media wall, showers, and their choice of a buffet or table-service meals; the Premiere section has a reading room with designer rocking chairs, and a buffet. Throughout the lounge, amenities include flat-screen TVs, Bose headphones, wired and wireless Internet connectivity, and a busine
ss center.
’Tis the season to launch new routes, it seems. Over the past weekend, United Airlines added two new nonstop routes: one between Los Angeles (LAX) and Hong Kong (HKG) and the other between Washington, D.C. (IAD) and Rio de Janeiro (GIG). Both the Boeing 747 aircraft serving the Hong Kong route and the B767s on the Rio route have four classes of service: first, business, economy and Economy Plus.
D19
305 S. Mill St.
Aspen, CO 81611
tel 970 925 6019
www.d19aspen.com
It was still Indian summer when I visited Aspen last week, with snow only on the high peaks and the ski crowds not yet in sight, but the new winter menu at D19 was in progress. I can safely report that the restaurant’s vaunted reputation for excellence is in no danger of diminishing.
D19’s ambience, food and service all manage to be both down-to-earth and exquisite at the same time; there was never a note out of place. We selected different wines from the wines-by-the-glass menu while we contemplated what to order. The menu does a good job of explaining each dish, but we welcomed the advice of our helpful waiter, who guided us to new items he felt were exceptional. Everything sounded so good that our party of three determined to order all different items and share.
D19’s name is a bit of a mystery — rumored variously to have something to do with a Dec. 19 anniversary or with chef/partner Dena Marino — with some guessing it refers to an airport gate, or a bingo call. The menu groups items from D1 (appetizers) through D8 (dessert), with stops for soups, salads, small sides, pasta, entrees and after-dinner drinks along the way. Though at heart this is an Italian restaurant, the menu is nothing like you’d find at your neighborhood spaghetti house — or even at most notable Italian restaurants.
The starter portions were just the right size — not tiny, but not appetite-killers either. The “angry mussels” were in a white wine-chili broth with Serrano peppers and orange zest: hot and tangy. The beef short rib brodetto was a stew with vegetables and Tuscan cabbage; one of my companions pronounced it simple and perfect, as if it had been made by her Italian grandmother. And the roasted cauliflower and leek puree was a thick soup enhanced by prosciutto, enough to sever the connection between “cauliflower” and “bland” forever. Our waiter had helped us winnow down our choice of wine to go with our diverse selections to a California Cabernet that was relatively affordable, and excellent.
The entrees all demanded — and merited — reverence. Ceppo was a log-type pasta with chicken, Italian sausage, potatoes, sun-dried tomatoes and pecorino dancing together beautifully on the palate. The potato-wrapped pan-seared halibut was light, but not too delicate, perfectly cooked and enhanced with roasted eggplant puree, peporanata and a demi reduction. My favorite was the Maple Leaf duck breast risotto: slices of duck framing a rich risotto made with Montasio cheese and grape juice, with grapes and caramelized apple bits — heavenly.
We made a noble effort at sampling the desserts, too: the flourless chocolate budino, a rich but not heavy cake served with vanilla gelato and banana Marsala sauce; the Meyer lemon pudding cake, served with a shotglass of blackberry granita; and the Mela torta rustica, roasted green apple toffee cake served with whipped cream. I’d be hard-pressed to say that any was less than splendid.
Dinner for three, with wine, came to a little over $230, not including tax or tip. Not only is that reasonable for Aspen, but the food was so good, it felt like a bargain.
Score: ••••• Mary Hunt
Northwest Airlines has just announced its Holiday Sale, good for travel Nov. 15 – 28 and Dec. 13 – Jan. 7 to U.S. and Canada destinations. Tickets must be purchased by Nov. 21. Sample round-trip fares: Phoenix (PHX) – St. Louis (STL) $174; Milwaukee (MKE) – Los Angeles (LAX) $218; Detroit (DET) – San Diego (SAN) $300.
The Emirates Palace in Abu Dhabi is teaming up with the Abu Dhabi Golf Club to offer high-end packages for golfers of all skill levels. The Royal Experience package includes breakfast at the hotel, Rolls Royce transfer to the golf club, professional instruction, and a practice game followed by a gourmet lunch in the clubhouse executive dining room. After lunch, play 18 holes on the championship National course, using chauffeured, air-conditioned Rolls Royce golf carts, and end the day with drinks in the clubhouse before your chauffeur returns you to the Emirates Palace. Price depends upon the level of accommodations — but basically this is a package for folks who don’t need to ask.
Like cookies? Delta is teaming up with Biscoff, the cookie company, for the Take Off With Biscoff sweepstakes. The grand prize includes round-trip airfare to Brussels (BRU) on Delta, five nights in Brussels and two nights in Brugge, plus $1,400 in spending money and a tour of the cookie factory. Five first prizes of 25,000 Delta SkyMiles and five second prizes of $100 gift certificates will also be awarded. Entry deadline is Nov. 30. You can also earn 250 bonus SkyMiles for every purchase of Biscoff cookies through the contest site.
Accor Hotels — which include Novotel, Sofitel, Mercure and other properties — is putting rooms on sale between Nov. 13 and Dec. 4. For example: Sofitel Lyon, $203; Sofitel Philadelphia, $145; Ibis Amsterdam, $100. Discounts range from 15 to 30 percent off the usual rates. Two-week advance purchase is required.
To celebrate the Nov. 25 launch of its Zurich (ZRH) – New Delhi (DEL) route, Swiss International Air Lines is offering special Web fares to New Delhi from five U.S. gateways; flights connect in Zurich. For travel between Nov. 25 and Dec. 13, round-trip coach fares (including all taxes and fees) are $1,275 from New York (JFK) or Boston (BOS), $1,400 from Chicago (ORD), $1,425 from Miami (MIA), and $1,525 from Los Angeles (LAX). You must return no sooner than Dec. 2 and no later than March 13.
Please note that in the Oct. 23 edition of eFlyer, we made two inadvertent errors regarding EVA Airways. Flights to Taipei (TPE) depart from Newark (EWR), not from JFK. And the retrofit of the airline’s 747-400s is to the same design and three-class service as its new 777-300ERs; Super First Class is being retired as of Dec. 1.
