THE SUN GOES DOWN on Durban’s Golden Mile, setting the Indian Ocean aflame. For the majority of visitors to this South African city, the advance of darkness is edged with anxiety. Heeding the guidebook warnings, they retreat to the safety of their hotels until daybreak. But others greet the approaching night with anticipation. This vibrant city comes into its own after nightfall.

Crime is certainly an issue here, and it is not advisable to walk the downtown streets in the dark. But with local advice and by taking taxis between venues, one can enjoy all the city offers without undue risk. And it’s worth it.

Suncoast Casino and Entertainment World bursts into neon life when the sun goes down. More than a touch reminiscent of Miami’s Art Deco South Beach, this glitzy complex at the northern end of the Golden Mile offers a range of cafés and restaurants, a multiscreen cinema and a gambling hall.

Live music at The Jazzy Rainbow © THE JAZZY RAINBOW

For more artisanal entertainment, seek out The Jazzy Rainbow, a live music venue ingeniously occupying a colonial-era house in Morningside district, just inland from downtown. South Africa boasts a proud jazz tradition, and this venue offers a great place to experience it firsthand.

The epicenter of Durban nightlife, Florida Road in Morningside, is a street of historic colonial buildings converted into shops, restaurants, pubs and clubs. Here you’ll be able to discover the homegrown electronic music style, gqom (you’ll also hear it blaring from minibus taxis throughout the city during the day). Being a form of house music, the gqom scene is dynamic. For the best (and safest) current venues, it’s advisable to have someone with local knowledge to guide you.

One of the city’s best LGBTQ venues, Club Altitude, is located in Berea, the district adjacent to Morningside. Consult the club’s website for information about what’s on, and note Tuesday nights welcome men only.

A survey for Durban Tourism found only 20 percent of visitors sample the city’s nightlife. That will undoubtedly change as increasing numbers of visitors discover what all the others have been missing.