The first weekend of May is always blocked out in our calendar for Spring Release Weekend in Walla Walla, Wash., when local wineries release their latest vintages and the whole community throws open its doors to food and wine lovers from near and far. We enjoy sharing the experience with dear friends who are also wine lovers whom we have known our entire married life, and so it was a few weeks ago. We all arrived on Thursday evening and convened for dinner at a new spot for us, the Walla Walla Bread Company, right in downtown and just a few blocks from the lovely campus of Whitman College.
Chef Michael Kline came to Walla Walla via, among other places, The Broadmoor in Colorado and the French Laundry in Yountville, Calif. In partnership with a family-owned local wheat farm, he produces breads and baked goods using the local grain and offers breakfast, lunch and dinner, dine in or take out, and also provides a variety of breads for local restaurants and tasting events. A wood-fired pizza oven produces an assortment of tasty pies, and the menu also offers two homemade soups made fresh daily, salads, sandwiches, main plates and, of course, some delectable desserts. Harry opted for a ciabbata sandwich and soup, while I chose the bucatina wild boar ragu (soooooo good!), and we shared a generous side dish of grilled asparagus with shaved Parmesan. (If it’s spring in Eastern Washington, expect to find exceptional local asparagus on just about every menu.)
Friday found us touring several wineries south of town, including a place we hadn’t stopped at before. Basel Cellars Estate Winery commands a stunning view from its hilltop, and the Estate House, built as a private home in 1997, now hosts eight guest suites for a resort-quality stay in addition to the tasting room, event space and winery. In fact, the original 9,600-square-foot, subterranean, temperature-controlled garage for the original owner’s car collection proved to be the perfect production facility.
We adjourned for lunch to one of our favorite spots: the Cenex Co-op Convenience Store/Gas Station. We delight in introducing first-timers to Andrae’s Kitchen because they certainly don’t expect the kind of eclectic and delicious dining experience they get here when they pull up to the unassuming, cinder block building. Andrae Bopp has built an excellent reputation throughout the Pacific Northwest for his restaurants, food trucks and catering business and won numerous awards; but if he’s in the kitchen when we stop in at AK’s @ the Co-op (and he usually is), he always makes time to come out and chat with us and ask us how the food is. Harry can’t resist the short rib tacos, and on this visit I was wowed by the halal-style chicken with cumin-spiced rice and a tzatziki sauce. And, of course, we had to try the deep-fried asparagus, cooked perfectly in just the lightest of tempura-like batter.
That evening we enjoyed dinner at the Whoopemup Hollow Café, new this year in downtown Walla Walla but a long-time favorite in nearby Waitsburg. Specializing in Southern comfort food, the café features jambalaya, filé gumbo, hushpuppies and crawfish pie. Harry and several others in our party ordered the jambalaya, a huge bowl brimming with andouille sausage, seafood, rice and greens. I was happy to go with what turned out to be a lighter but equally satisfying dish, the chicken and dumplings, with the dumplings being a unique, light take on the traditional, made with Parmesan.
Saturday took us to two wineries which are usually closed to the public but which host special events for members of their wine clubs on this weekend. The Figgins family of Leonetti Cellar are always gracious hosts on their beautiful estate, and guests enjoy unlimited tastes of the most recent releases, self-guided tours of the barrel rooms and cellars, and delicious finger foods as well. We always enjoy dropping in to Corliss’s special event, held in its facility inside a beautifully restored brick former flour mill. An eclectic array of artwork adorns the rooms, and silver candlesticks and bowls brimming with lush flowers reflect the light from crystal chandeliers. We lingered while enjoying several of the winery’s opulent red wines, including barrel tastes of the 2015 Syrah. (Corliss releases its wines five years after the vintage.) I can report that the cork-upholstered chair is remarkably comfortable!
No, we never tire of our visits to Walla Walla and all the charms it has to offer. This year, we’re considering returning for Fall Release, the first weekend in November. Perhaps we’ll see you there!
— Patty Vanikiotis, associate editor/copy editor
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