While some countries propelled themselves into the future by sweeping away much of their cultural and architectural heritage, India is too big, too old and too entrenched in its traditions to start completely afresh. In the teeming, chaotic cities, the future is being grafted onto the past. Nowhere is the juxtaposition as dramatic as in Bangalore.

Located on the boulder-strewn Deccan Plateau in the southern state of Karnataka, Bangalore’s transformation began in earnest in the 1990s, when it deliberately positioned itself as a center for high-technology industries. As increasing numbers of electronics and IT companies flocked to the city, a network of ancillary companies sprang up to service them. Growth snowballed. Within a few years, Bangalore was firmly established as “India’s Silicon Valley.”

At the turn of the millennium, the impact of the city’s emergence as a high-tech powerhouse was being felt globally. IT professionals in the developed world found themselves “Bangalored”: Their jobs were effectively undercut by the cheaper, highly skilled workforce in the state-of-the-art business parks springing up in and around Bangalore.

The snowball continues to roll. Skilled tech workers converge on Bangalore from all over India. Estimates say 44 percent of all new settlers in the city possess tech skills (as opposed to 31 percent for the San Francisco Bay Area). Bangalore’s pool of talent is growing by around 26,500 people each year, making it an attractive environment for both established and startup technology firms, some of which relocated directly from California’s Silicon Valley. At the present rate, Bangalore will boast more than 2 million tech workers by 2020.

The net result: Bangalore is the most advanced and most cosmopolitan city in India, with an annual gross domestic product of $83 billion and average annual growth through to 2025 projected at 6.5 percent.

The temple gopuram at the Mysore Palace © Grzegorz Kielbasa | Dreamstime.com

The city’s demography exists in a state of flux. Whereas it was once the stronghold of the Kannadiga people, whose spoken language is Kannada, the continuing influx of new arrivals has made the city multicultural and multilingual. Immigrants from other regions of India make up around half the population, and there is also a sizeable community of foreign expatriates.

The city’s success has inevitably given rise to problems. The population almost doubled since 2001 and is now just more than 10 million. The basic infrastructure lagged behind. Traffic gridlock is commonplace. In IBM’s Commuter Pain Index, Bangalore ranks as the sixth-worst city in the world and the worst in India. Estimates indicate drivers waste the equivalent of 6 billion man-hours each year sitting in Bangalore’s notorious jams.

The Namma Metro (literally “Our Metro”) offers one medium-term solution, the first phase of which was inaugurated in 2011, with completion of the full network expected by the end of 2019. For now, disruption caused by the ongoing construction work exacerbates the already chronic traffic chaos, but with two lines already functioning, the Metro offers travelers a swift, air-conditioned alternative on some routes across the city.

Perhaps more worrying for a city dependent on high technology, breakneck growth has outstripped the power supply. Rolling outages are common, with many companies relying on standby generators to keep things running smoothly. Recent government initiatives aim to put an increasing emphasis on renewable energy sources in the coming decades.

For now, air quality is a cause for concern, with some parts of the city showing pollution levels four times the national permissible level. There are also worries about water. When local politician V. Balasubramanian conducted a study into the city’s water, he concluded, alarmingly: “The government of Karnataka will have to evacuate half of Bangalore in the next 10 years due to water scarcity, contamination of water and diseases.”

Such are the consequences of transplanting a modern city onto ancient foundations. Archaeological evidence indicates human habitation of the Bangalore area dates back around 6,000 years. Several dynasties ruled the city, each leaving its mark. Archaeological digs even uncovered 2,000-year-old Roman coins, proving Bangalore’s current global economic stature is nothing new.

As you move around the city (often with plenty of time to take it all in as you sit stationary in traffic), Bangalore presents itself in all its complexity. Modern skyscrapers tower over markets and bustling streets that are practically medieval. The latest limousines jostle for road space with auto-rickshaws, men manually hauling wooden carts loaded with all kinds of cargo, and even stray cows.

Vendors selling fruit in Bangalore © Brandon Bourdages | Dreamstime.com

This is India in all its kaleidoscopic glory, with undercurrents that have persisted for centuries. Even in this most modern of cities, the contradictions and intrigues of old India persist, right down to the name.

This is a country in which city names come loaded with colonial baggage, and systematic efforts have been made to Indianize them. Bombay has become Mumbai, Calcutta is now Kolkata, Madras is Chennai. In 2007, Bangalore was officially renamed Bengaluru.

Some hotels and businesses embraced the change while others have chosen to stick with Bangalore, given that the name provides a level of global recognition that many other cities would envy. Added to that, there is a sense that the new name, which draws on the past, sits awkwardly on a city that established itself as an important high-tech hub. Bengaluru means “town of boiled beans.”

Bangalore is by turns infuriating, exhilarating, ancient, modern, bogged down with bureaucracy, full of opportunities, confusing, fascinating, impenetrable and welcoming. In short, it’s India.

Things to do in Bangalore

If it’s your first time in India, prepare for culture shock. Your senses will be bombarded; your concept of personal space will have to be revised; every foray beyond the international familiarity of your hotel will be an adventure.

During your first couple of days, you will be at your most vulnerable, both to scammers (in your initial, bewildered state you’ll be a prime target) and accidents (don’t trust the sidewalks — they’re uneven, with occasional holes big enough to fall through; be exceptionally careful crossing the roads — ostensibly vehicles drive on the left, but in practice they can come at you from any direction at any time).

To begin with, stick to official taxis for getting around. As you become more streetwise, three-wheel “autos” offer a cheap and convenient option, though be aware the drivers are infamously opportunistic. Be sure to agree on the price in advance and refuse any suggestions by the driver to take you to his “cousin’s” carpet/souvenir shop.

At the heart of Bangalore sits The Cubbon Park, a British-style public park complete with a boating lake and a bandstand, laid out by the colonial administrators in 1870. As well as serving as the “lungs of Bangalore,” this extensive leafy space offers an important focal point for leisure and pleasure and is a great place to mix with Bangaloreans from all walks of life.

To the south, an even older public park, Lalbagh Botanical Gardens, commissioned in 1760 by the Islamic sultan Hyder Ali, boasts India’s most extensive collection of rare plants.

The Palace of Tipu Sultan © Milosk50 | Dreamstime.com

The power of the Islamic rulers centered on Bangalore Fort, largely destroyed by the British after a siege in 1791; only the main gate and some sections of the ramparts survive. Nearby find Tipu Sultan’s Palace, dubbed, when it was built, “the Envy of Heaven.” Having seen better days, it remains an atmospheric relic of the era immediately before the British raj.

Bangalore Palace (aka Windsor Castle), situated immediately north of downtown, is an ivy-clad, turreted castle seemingly transplanted from England. Built by an English high school principal in 1862 and subsequently purchased by the Maharaja of Mysore, its grounds serve as the city’s main concert venue, playing host to shows by Elton John, Aerosmith and the Rolling Stones, among others.

The Bangalore Government Museum, occupying a bright red, colonnaded building, displays interesting collections that provide an overview of the region’s history, art, music, archaeology and natural history. The adjacent Venkatappa Art Gallery houses the work of early-20th-century artist K. Venkatappa, the court painter of the maharajas.

If you’re interested in aviation, don’t miss India’s first aviation museum, the HAL (Hindustan Aeronautics Limited) Heritage Centre and Aerospace Museum, close to the old airport. Alongside a collection of vintage aircraft, the museum offers the opportunity to view the comings and goings of light aircraft from a mock-up control tower overlooking the nearby runway.

Nrityagram, 20 miles northwest of downtown, is a residential school specializing in classical Indian dance. The school’s website and Facebook page detail guided tours and performances; contact the school before your visit to ensure the dancers are in residence.

A three-hour drive southwest of Bangalore lies ancient Mysore (now officially called Mysuru), the “City of Incense,” well worth a visit. Highlights include the spectacular Amba Vilas Maharaja Palace (Mysore Palace), built in 1912 with no expense spared, and the Railway Museum, where the maharaja’s sumptuous private carriages are on display.

Bandipur National Park, four hours from Bangalore (via Mysore), is one of India’s most beautiful parks. Resident wild species include elephants, leopards, sloth bears, dholes (wild dogs) and tigers.

CHECKING IN WITH OLIVIA GODELUCK

Director, Sofies – India, an international consulting firm specializing in sustainability

What brought you to Bangalore?
I arrived in Bangalore in February 2006 for an internship. Coming to India was an opportunity to discover on the ground what microfinance was and how the programs were implemented. Here I am, nearly 10 years later.

How has the city changed in the time you’ve known it?
Life in Bangalore tremendously changed. When I arrived, Bangalore was still a city of 5 to 6 million inhabitants. You could move quite easily within the city. Lakes and parks seemed predominant. Ten years later, the overview is different. The infrastructure did not follow with the rapid growth of the population. It’s nearly impossible to park anywhere; going somewhere is a challenge. The shape of the city is not the same. In 2006, most of the houses/offices were three- to four-story buildings; the only tower was the Utility Building on MG Road. Now towers are everywhere, growing like mushrooms.

What cultural differences should foreign investors be aware of when doing business in India?
The list could be long, and it’s changing depending on the areas. An open mind, flexibility, curiosity and interest in the country and its culture are key. Most of the business opportunities are in the Indian domestic market. So we should adapt, and not the contrary. India makes you learn about yourself! That’s always great, so let’s welcome it.

What main developments do you foresee for the future of Bangalore?
The city faces a huge challenge in terms of sustainability. As already mentioned, the infrastructure did not follow the population growth. It will probably become more and more difficult to move within the city. Currently on radio there are ads explaining that the traffic is going to get worse, and that by 2017 kids will have an average of two hours of commuting to school every day. That’s kind of scary. The construction continues. People will live more and more in enclaves, increasing the gap between social classes.

Bangalore Info to Go

Scheduled international and domestic flights arrive at Kempegowda International Airport, located 25 miles north of central Bangalore. Taxis to city hotels cost around $12; the journey takes 40–60 minutes, depending on traffic. Until 2008, the main airport was HAL Bangalore Airport, close to downtown; it continues to be used for non-scheduled general and business aviation.

Bangalore: Just the Facts

Time Zone: GMT +5 hours, 30 minutes
Phone Code: Country Code: 91 City code: 80
Entry/Exit Requirements: All U.S. citizens require a valid passport and a valid visa to enter India. Secure a visa from the Indian Embassy in Washington, D.C., or from your nearest Indian consulate before arrival. Applications can also be made through Cox & Kings Global Services. A 12-month, multiple-entry business visa costs $160. Visa regulations change frequently.
Currency: Indian rupee
Official Language: Kannada, one of India’s 22 official languages, remains the most common language in Bangalore, though Hindi is beginning to supplant it due to immigration from other parts of the country. English, widely spoken, is effectively the lingua franca of business.
Key Industries: IT, biotechnology, aerospace, electronics, automobile manufacture, floriculture

Where to Stay in Bangalore

Escape Hotel & Spa Ideally located on the fashionable 100 Feet Road, this contemporary hotel offers modern design with an Indian flavor. 770, 100 Feet Road, Indiranagar $$$

The Leela Palace Bangalore Set within nine acres of gardens, this palatial hotel is fit for a maharaja. Timelessly opulent guestrooms don’t compromise on 21st-century amenities. 23 HAL Airport Road $$$$

The Taj West End Dating back to 1887, this venerable hotel in the British colonial style has moved with the times without surrendering its heritage. 25 Race Course Road $$$$

Restaurants in Bangalore

Dakshin Housed within the ITC Windsor hotel, this smart restaurant specializes in flavorful (and often fiery) South Indian cuisine. ITC Windsor, Bengaluru; 25 Windsor Square; Golf Course Road $$$

Karavalli Set in the gardens of the Gateway Hotel, Karavalli features the cuisine of the coastal regions, so expect plenty of seafood. Some dishes are served on banana leaves. The Gateway Hotel, 66 Residency Road $$$

Sunny’s A long-time local favorite named after the owner’s golden retriever features an international menu with an emphasis on pizza and pasta. 50 Lavelle Road $$