FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Auckland: Take The Plunge

Nov 1, 2010
2010 / November 2010

Two phrases which strike fear into the heart of every parent will almost assuredly never be heard when visiting Auckland. With a range of activities from sailing to whale watching, bungee-jumping to exploring traditional Mˉaori culture, all within an hour’s drive of the city center, “I’m bored!” and “Are we there yet?” won’t be making this trip.

In fact, narrowing your choices of what to see and do in New Zealand’s City of Sails may be your biggest challenge. Set on a narrow isthmus separating the North Island’s west coast (the Tasman Sea) and the Hauraki Gulf (the Pacific Ocean) to the east, Auckland boasts easy access to a host of outdoor pursuits as well as all the big-city attractions one could ask for: art galleries, museums, funky shopping districts, a lively café culture and a vibrant nightlife.

My best advice? While visiting Down Under, focus on the sites, activities and features singular to this land: fantastic and unique flora and fauna, a rich indigenous culture and heritage — and water, water, everywhere.

For an initial overview of Auckland through the lens of Mˉaori culture and identity, consider a tour crafted with your particular group’s interests in mind by Mõhio Tours (1 Beresford Square, Newton, Auckland, tel 64 9 551 3177). Providing “Auckland sightseeing with an indigenous twist,” specialist Mˉaori guides can craft tours which introduce you to the modern urban landscape highlighting shopping, food and art; provide you with insights into the development of this area; and explain both traditional and contemporary Mˉaori culture and its valued position in New Zealand life.

Right in the middle of the city is One Tree Hill — Maungakiekie — the site of a pˉa (a fortified Mˉaori village) that was home to 5,000 inhabitants in pre-European times. Your guide interprets the still-visible depressions and terraces as storehouse foundations and elements of an elaborate defense system. Her stories take you and this modern-day park and working farm back in time to a complex, wealthy and often warring society. Views from the top of this dormant volcanic cone with its monument featuring a statue of a Mˉaori warrior and a towering stone obelisk are stunning, particularly at sunset. You’ll get a good sense of the entire area, from the narrowest point of the isthmus separating the Waitemata and Manukau harbors to the expanse of modern Auckland, the mountains in the distance and the islands near at hand.

On your own, you can hop on the Link Bus to visit key sites around town. A daily Family BusAbout Pass for about $18 allows two adults and up to four children unlimited rides on any of the transit system’s buses. The Link route runs a frequent loop connecting to the Central Business District, and an excellent first stop is the Auckland War Memorial Museum (tel 64 9 309 0443) in the heart of the Auckland Domain, the city’s oldest park. The museum houses exhibits which run the gamut from natural history to decorative arts, World War II artifacts and New Zealand filmmaking. “Treasures & Tales” and “Weird & Wonderful” galleries allow hands-on encounters with bugs, reptiles and plants. “Family Trails” allow groups to create their own self-guided tours with a focus on one aspect of the museum, such as Mˉaori culture or natural history.

The “Volcanoes” gallery provides highly interactive exhibits which help to explain the forces that formed modern-day Auckland. Much of the area sits atop the Auckland Volcanic Field, comprised of 48 volcanoes including Pukekawa, on which the Domain sits. While the last eruption in the area occurred some 600 years ago, the Shake House reminds visitors that New Zealand sits on the still-active Pacific Ring of Fire. Take a seat in the “living room” and suddenly find yourself shaken by tremors as an eruption begins in the bay just outside the windows and a mock newscast on the TV broadcasts images of ash blasting toward shore.

Be sure to also visit the Mˉaori Court and galleries for an introduction to the indigenous people of Aotearoa (New Zealand). Explore the last of the great war canoes, elaborately carved from a single immense totara tree; store houses; a meeting house; and a broad collection of treasures (taonga) from the past. An additional fee provides entrance to a half-hour-long cultural performance in which Mˉaori men and women dressed in traditional garments share their history and culture through songs and games. Concluding with the haka, a traditional war dance meant to frighten and intimidate the enemy, it may leave your kids practicing their own versions for the rest of the day.

Next, delve into the yachting lifestyle in this city renowned for boating. From the Domain, jump back on the Link Bus and return to Viaduct Harbour in the heart of the CBD. Pride of Auckland tours offer a chance to take part in sailing a 15-meter mono-hull America’s Cup yacht. Lunch or dinnertime tours and even match racing allow you to simply sit back and enjoy the views of the city and harbor or help maneuver your yacht across the “Sparkling Waters” of Waitemata Harbour. Longer Whale and Dolphin Safaris via high-speed catamarans take you out into the waters of the Hauraki Gulf, one of the most biologically diverse marine habitats in the world. There are few things more thrilling than watching dolphins leap and dart alongside the bow or observing whales breaching nearby.

Once back on dry land, venture to Kelly Tarlton’s Underwater World and Antarctic Adventure (23 Tamaki Drive, Orakei, Auckland, tel 64 9 528 0603). Here you can get even closer to some of the species that inhabit New Zealand waters, as well as other non-native marine critters. Attractions include a gentoo and king penguin habitat, the Stingray Bay aquarium, touch pools, a shark cage encounter (10 years and up) and acrylic tunnels which allow you to walk “through” the two largest tanks, observing the inhabitants from all angles.

Afterward, it’s just a short jaunt to Mission Bay, a favorite with the locals for its golden-sand beach and safe, year-round swimming. The promenade provides the perfect venue for strolling, rollerblading and cycling while the calm waters are great for kayaking, sailing and windsurfing. In addition to vendors renting equipment for those pursuits, the bay is lined with an assortment of eateries representing a variety of international tastes.

For a wilder perspective of the region’s beaches and forests, head west toward the Tasman Sea, less than 45 minutes from the CBD. An eco-tour with Bush and Beach’s knowledgeable guides stops first at the Arataki Visitor Centre in the Waitakere Ranges Regional Park. Perched high on a ridge, the center provides stunning views of second-growth rainforest falling away to the harbors on either side and the Sky Tower in Auckland far in the distance. Interpretive displays inside help to identify some of the birds and plants you’ll see when you venture into the bush. Shy wood pigeons the size of large chickens are surprisingly hard to spot in the canopy, while the fantail’s saucy nature and flashy black-and-white tail make him hard to miss. And you won’t be able to stop staring at the pukeko, whose bright red feet and large red bill against brilliant blue plumage may convince you a bird dreamed up by Dr. Seuss has come magically to life.

Later, drop down to stroll next to the booming surf on fine, black sand which sparkles with titanium and leaves a thick, bristling coating of iron particles on magnets passed over it. Guides share Mˉaori stories explaining the presence of immense Lion Rock on the popular surfing beach at Piha and other tales of the history and ecology of this fascinating land. An easy stroll through stands of 20-foot-tall tree ferns and immense kauri trees, once nearly logged to extinction, completes an excursion which makes you feel as if you’ve traveled back to some primordial forest.

Ready to head back to town? The thrill-seekers in your group may be eager to bungee-jump from Auckland’s Harbour Bridge (jumpers must be at least 10 years old). What could be more appropriate in the land that claims to have invented the sport? Or perhaps a base jump from the iconic Sky Tower would provide those adrenalin junkies their fix. For those simply seeking a nice panoramic view without needing to fling themselves into space, the tamer Bridge Climb or a visit to the observation deck of the Sky Tower would fit the bill.

You’ve explored the city, the waters and the bush and beaches of this diverse area; the only element you haven’t entered is the sky (bungee-jumpers excluded). If this is your first trip to the Southern Hemisphere, a visit to the Stardome Observatory and Planetarium provides the chance to identify and learn about the stars and constellations unique to this part of the world, especially the iconic Southern Cross. Daytime planetarium shows are designed for children as young as 4, while evening programs cover a range of topics that change month to month but always include a look at the heavenly bodies visible in that night’s sky.

More than worthwhile for a small additional fee is the chance to observe stars, planets, the moon and even another galaxy through the observatory’s large .5-meter Zeiss telescope. Standing within the darkened dome, observing the complex machinery as it swings the scope into position and then peering into the eyepiece to see the perfect image of ringed Saturn against deep black space suddenly leap into focus will leave indelible memories for young and old alike.

Is that all there is? No, but then you probably should leave something for next time. After one visit to this vibrant, friendly, active city, the kids will be wanting to know, “When can we go back?”


Info To Go

Auckland International Airport (AKL ) is about 14 miles south of the city center. One-way taxi service to downtown costs $45–60; shuttle service is $22–30 per person. Airbus Express buses (http://www.airbus.co.nz) make the 40-minute drive to the CBD and the waterfront Ferry Terminal, leaving the main terminal every 15 minutes (about $12). Several car rental desks are located within the international terminal. Visit http://www.aucklandnz.com.


Lodging

The Heritage
Self-contained suites include washers, dryers and microwaves. Located near the Viaduct Harbour, they also offer two gyms, two pools, tennis courts and babysitting services. 35 Hobson St., tel 64 9 379 8553, $$$

The Langham Auckland
The property offers free shuttle services to the waterfront, bike rentals, a pool, 24-hour room service, a fitness center and family-friendly dining — with signature Langham style. 83 Symonds St., tel 64 9 379 5132, $$$$

Quest Apartments on Cintra Lane
Serviced studio, one- and two-bedroom apartments with full kitchens and laundry facilities are located near the city center and offer babysitting, secretarial and grocery-shopping services. 3 Whitaker Place, tel 64 9 379 6288, $$$


Dining

Fish Pot Café

Order “take-away” at this café along Mission Bay to enjoy at a park or on the beach; great fish and chips and a kids’ menu. 99B Tamaki Drive, Mission Bay, tel 64 9 528 409 $$

Murder Burger
Awarded Auckland’s “best gourmet burgers” and “best burger joint” two years running, MB irreverently offers a broad selection of burgers, sandwiches and sides. 128A Ponsonby Road, Ponsonby, tel 64 9 550 5500, $

Waterfront Café

Located in the Maritime Museum, with harbor views and outdoor seating, the café‘s brunch, lunch and dinner menus will please any palate. 167-171 Quay St., tel 64 9 359 9914, $$

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