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After 5

Come to the Cabaret

Montréal puts on a nightly show of culture and cuisine.

By Megan Rowe

Christian De Grandmaison, Dreamstime.com

Montréal’s nightlife scene reflects the city’s split personality: It’s a distinctive mix of historic and ultramodern, with something for everyone.

A good place to launch any nocturnal exploration is Plateau Mont-Royal (also called simply Le Plateau), which some Montréalers deem the cultural soul of the city. In this densely populated neighborhood you’ll find colorful bistros, bars, nightclubs, boutiques and more. A standout is Laïka (4040 Blvd. St.-Laurent, tel 514 842 8088), a bar/lounge/restaurant where chefs take turns spinning house music and where artists, musicians, designers, filmmakers and other local tastemakers gather, creating optimal people-watching action.

Downtown’s Quartier des Spectacles (www.quartierdes spectacles.com/en/) is an emerging focal point for Montréal’s robust arts community and home to a number of galleries, restaurants and clubs. In this district, you can choose from movies, plays, dance performances, art exhibits, operas, concerts and comedy shows. With dozens of venues and multiple festivals throughout the year, it’s a good bet if you’re jonesing for some live entertainment or cutting-edge art.

For travelers curious about the gay and lesbian scene, The Village (centered around the crossroads of Amherst and Ste.-Catherine streets) is a must-visit. It’s home to a number of classic and popular clubs, including the sprawling Sky (1474 Ste.-Catherine St. E., tel 514 529 6969, www.complexesky.com/), which is synonymous with “party”; and Chez Mado (1115 Ste.-Catherine St. E., tel 514 525 7566), where a legendary drag queen and friends present a cabaret of dancing, music and improv. The Village also hosts a number of outdoor events every summer.

Montréal is very much a foodie town, so there is no shortage of fabulous meals to be had at any of the 5,000-odd restaurants. Among the city’s finest and most popular “restos”: chic and modern Toqué! (900 Place Jean-Paul-Riopelle, tel 514 499 2084, www .restaurant-toque.com/en/), a showcase of local gourmet ingredients; Au Pied de Cochon (536 Duluth St. E., tel 514 281 1114, www .restaurantaupieddecochon.ca), where you can stuff yourself with Quebécois-influenced foie gras-laced specialties; or Joe Beef (2491 Notre-Dame W., tel 514 935 6504, www.joebeef.ca/), a steak-and-seafood hangout in the Old Montréal neighborhood.

Looking for an early-morning bite to cap an evening of club-hopping? It’s the perfect opportunity to sample a bit of local flavor. Poutine is easily found at any number of all-night eateries; locals swear by the two dozen variations at the 24-hour La Banquise (994 Rachel St. E., tel 514 525 2415, www.restolabanquise.com). The real deal is a comforting concoction of three deceptively simple ingredients: French fries, sauce (typically gravy) and cheese curds (the solids produced when milk is curdled). Bon appétit!


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