Belfast’s historic claims range from being the birthplace of C. S. Lewis and Van Morrison to being the site of the Titanic’s construction and The Troubles, the euphemistic name given the political terror that marred the late 20th century. In the past decade, the city has morphed into an increasingly cosmopolitan destination, one dressed in Victorian garb and known for craic (pronounced “crack”), the local term for great fun.

Break fast at the unfussy Mad Hatter (2 Eglantine Ave., tel 44 28 9068 3461), famed for its version of a heart-attack-on-a-plate: an Ulster fry comprising eggs, bacon, sausage, tomato, mushrooms and soda and potato breads. Stroll it off in the Botanic Gardens, where Queen’s University students lounge when the weather’s fine. Don’t miss the Palm House, Victorian eye candy designed by Charles Lanyon and built between 1839 and 1852, or the Tropical Ravine, built in 1889 by head gardener Charles McKimm. Dip into world art, history and natural sciences at the recently refurbished Ulster Museum.

Fashionistas should detour to Lisburn Road, Belfast’s Diamond Mile, for serious upscale shopping. Otherwise, mosey the Golden Mile, which stretches from the university to the city center. En route is the exquisite Grand Opera House, designed by Frank Matcham and opened in 1895. Threatened with demolition in 1974, it was acquired by the Arts Council of Northern Ireland in 1976, masterfully restored and reopened in 1980. After a look-about, slip into a snug for lunch and a pick-me-up pint at the nearby Crown Bar, an ornate architectural gem now owned by Ireland’s National Trust. Or detour off Great Victoria Street to Long’s Fish & Chips (tel 44 28 9032 1848), Belfast’s holy grail for “chippies” — battered cod, fries, peas and tea.

Refueled, aim your sights on the 173-foot copper dome of City Hall (Donegall Square North), a landmark designed by Alfred Brumwell Thomas and completed in 1906. After admiring the Edwardian wedding-cake architecture from outside, step inside for a free guided tour.

Gain an understanding of The Troubles on one of Ken Harper’s Belfast Taxi Tours (tel 44 28 9074 2711) of the powerful political murals in West Belfast’s Falls Road and Shankill neighborhoods. Afterward, drown those sorrows beneath Baccarat chandeliers at The Merchant Hotel, dubbed the world’s best hotel bar during the 2009 Tales of the Cocktail Festival’s annual Spirit Awards.

After dinner — perhaps seafood at Mourne’s or a dining adventure at Cayenne, where renowned chef Paul Rankin gives locally sourced foods a Far East twist — seek out traditional music in a classic pub. Good bets are Kelly’s Cellars, Madden’s Bar, Fibber McGee’s and Whites Tavern. Order a pint and settle in for some brilliant craic.